||Trad, Aid, 5 pitches
|Consensus: ||A3 [details]|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,146|
|Submitted By: ||Luke Malatesta on Oct 30, 2008|
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Pitch 1- Climb the old A4 pitch " Short but Cute" (mostly clean) to a 2 bolt belay (A2). Best to link this with the next pitch as it is really short.
Pitch 2- Continue in corner up to the old bail bolt, thin beaking (filed beaks useful) leads to a bolt where the seam dies out. Clip the bolt and hook/free climb up to a stance and 3 bolt belay (A2+/A3).
Pitch 3- Walk right on ledge and use a rivet to help your transition into the obvious seam. More thin beaking leads to another rivet, move off this and continue beaking to a rivet ladder to a 2 bolt belay. Filed beaks useful- Bad fall over ledge. No Bolts,only rivets on this pitch (A3)
Pitch 4- Climb the bolt ladder (A0 5 Bolts) to the overhanging seam(s). Nail/Beak up the corner, clip a bolt and transition to more of the same in the next seam/corner. 3 bolt belay (A2)
Pitch 5- Take the left crack off of the belay (mostly c1), clip a bolt when this ends and lean into the right facing corner. Nail up this corner to a slopey stance and a 3 bolt belay. There is some rotten and expanding rock in the upper part of this pitch- Use caution (A3)
Many of the pitches are short and could be linked. I am not sure of the grade. Rap route for descent.
Left of Potash Sanction and right of Astrolad
1 Set offset nuts
1 Set offset Aliens
1 Set Aliens - Black-Clear
1 Set C3's
1 Set angles - triples in #1 & #2