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Lilly Bluff
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Dinosaur Jr. 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace & Bob Cormany - 1979
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: Sam Adams on Jul 21, 2009
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Description 

Stick clip for hard moves right off the ground. Step up and lay away a short steep crack to a a very positive shelf. Keep with it until you've pulled over the shelf and made the second clip then jug haul the gently overhanging wall into a crack to finish. This is a fun and pumpy route, but don't underestimate the opening moves.


Location 

Far north end of Lilly Bluff above the old walk up from the road.


Protection 

Bolts to ring anchors.



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By Travis Griggs
Mar 4, 2013

This route doesn't get as much traffic as the nearby Paraphernalia (5.10b/c), but I always thought Dino Jr was the better route. I highly recommend you stickclip the first bolt. If you blow the cruxy opening moves -- a powerful layback and slap to the shelf -- you'll end up crashing down off-balance onto a large pointy bolder.

The climbing eases substantially higher on the route, but the pump can sneak up on you during the final steep moves to the anchors. Good route.