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Buck's Bar Dome
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Dinkum 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,034
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Feb 26, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resoluti...

Description 

Dinkum is the quality finger crack on the south face of Buck's Bar Dome. You can easily spot it as you take the path down towards the main area. Begin by climbing a 14' flake then the finger fun begins!


Protection 

Pro to 1 inch. You may also hang a top rope from the bolted anchors above dinkum. Walk around to the left to get atop Buck's Bar Dome. The anchors for Dinkum are second from the right when you're looking down.



Photos of Dinkum Slideshow Add Photo
Almost to good jam in wide crack.  Still another hard move to go to get feet into wide crack.
Almost to good jam in wide crack. Still another h...
Brad on top of pillar removing stopper.
Brad on top of pillar removing stopper.
Great 9 finger crack
Great 9 finger crack
Brad starting up the hard section.  Footholds run out pretty quickly here!
Brad starting up the hard section. Footholds run ...
Getting gear out is as difficult as setting it.  Thin feet with thin layback/jams.
Getting gear out is as difficult as setting it. T...
I think a full nalgene will keep that nut in place!
I think a full nalgene will keep that nut in place...
Brad moving over the easier ground to top of pillar.
Brad moving over the easier ground to top of pilla...
One move, finger job
BETA PHOTO: One move, finger job
Continuous moves here up to where cracks widens.  Hey Brad, my gear!
Continuous moves here up to where cracks widens. ...
Comments on Dinkum Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is a wonderful route to lead as the crack takes great gear! Easy climbing to top of "pillar" where two cracks meet. Small stoppers protect the thin finger crack above but footholds are small so placements are a bit strenous. A large cam (3.5 or 4) slides in nicely where the crack widens and then a long reach off a jam gets you to easier ground. A very fun climb!

By Nathan L.
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

One of the better routes and a good lead problem. But more like 5.8+ on lead and 5.8 TR if your not competing with the crack for gear.

By scout 2
From: placerville,ca
Jul 30, 2008

A bit of history, This is one of the Training routes For Tony Yanero
Using a 40 lb pack on doing laps up and down. for Grand Illusion The first 5.13 @ sugar loaf.

I've also herd stories of The Don Whillans
,was one of the early pioneers to this obscure area.and may be responsible for the name
of this route.

By danielwhore
Jan 10, 2011

This sounds trivial but is very important to me - I left my brown flip flops at the base of this route on Saturday, Jan 8th.. if anyone sees them can you stash them somewhere for me and email about it? danielhoer@gmail.com THANKS.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Pretty cool Yaniro trivia, thanks!

Dinkum is short but very quality. The crux is a great intro to what polished finger cracks are like for those getting into trad. Remembering my own days of "getting into it," you can set a toprope easily enough, but may want to set a backup by slinging the tree above the climb first... It's also a fun thing to come back and lead (or do 40 lb pack laps) later. In fact, myself and most everybody I know does 40 lb pack laps on this rig. It's pretty casual. If you don't have the pack, you can always substitute a beer gut.

By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

One move, finger job
One move, finger job


It's short and doesn't last long, so to prolong the fun, put in lots of pro the first 10ft from the pedestal and it will give you a good pump.