Dinkum 

This is a wonderful route to lead as the crack takes great gear! Easy climbing to top of "pillar" where two cracks meet. Small stoppers protect the thin finger crack above but footholds are small so placements are a bit strenous. A large cam (3.5 or 4) slides in nicely where the crack widens and then a long reach off a jam gets you to easier ground. A very fun climb!

One of the better routes and a good lead problem. But more like 5.8+ on lead and 5.8 TR if your not competing with the crack for gear.

A bit of history, This is one of the Training routes For Tony Yanero
Using a 40 lb pack on doing laps up and down. for Grand Illusion The first 5.13 @ sugar loaf.

I've also herd stories of The Don Whillans
,was one of the early pioneers to this obscure area.and may be responsible for the name
of this route.

This sounds trivial but is very important to me - I left my brown flip flops at the base of this route on Saturday, Jan 8th.. if anyone sees them can you stash them somewhere for me and email about it? danielhoer@gmail.com THANKS.

Pretty cool Yaniro trivia, thanks!

Dinkum is short but very quality. The crux is a great intro to what polished finger cracks are like for those getting into trad. Remembering my own days of "getting into it," you can set a toprope easily enough, but may want to set a backup by slinging the tree above the climb first... It's also a fun thing to come back and lead (or do 40 lb pack laps) later. In fact, myself and most everybody I know does 40 lb pack laps on this rig. It's pretty casual. If you don't have the pack, you can always substitute a beer gut.