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Dillinger
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Steve Montesanto |
Page Views: | 2,880 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Steve Montesanto on Aug 30, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
5.10 face climbing right of the ground and past 3 bolts leads to a good ledge (a stick clip may help for the first bolt). The real business starts here climbing off the ledge and onto the bulge. Quite sustained from 5th to 7th bolt with hardest moves occurring around the 6th. From here 5.10 terrain past a couple of more bolts to the anchors.
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