Start up using the face on the right and holds on the detached, 8-foot pillar to the left to gain a good stance to clip the high first bolt. Follow more bolts making fun face moves on sharp rock. The apparent crux comes about half way up when moving up the face from a good ledge in a shallow dihedral. I tried not to use the right wall of the dihedral to "keep it real" but ended up putting a foot out there. Easier climbing leads to the anchors just above a small roof.
This is the first route to the right of Shelfish starting slightly behind a small detached pillar.
9 bolts to two bolts with rap rings for the anchor.
At the crux.
Joshua high on Dillinger.
At the last clip.
BETA PHOTO: Dillinger.
Stepping off the pillar at the start.
|By Matt Strauser|
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 13, 2010
I believe there are now more routes between Shelfish and Dillinger.
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some fun climbing on this one, although the holds at the top seem pretty fragile and you have a ledge below you.
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011
The BR & Brandon route depicted by MJM (those are my initials too) is named Knot Too Many Roaches.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 4, 2013
Great early morning warm-up to avoid the crowds of Cactus! Everything was pretty solid from what I could tell, as well! Start from the spire on the left (which I think is the more fun way) or on the right!