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The Dihedrals Area portion of the Gate Buttress has many fine climbs, most being dihedrals! Nearly all the routes are 5.9 or harder, except for Satan's Corner (5.8). For the most part, the climbs are single pitch with not much fixed gear.
Park at the pull-outs 1 1/4 miles up the canyon. This is the same spot as used for the Schoolroom area. Find a climber's trail just west of the parking which cruises past the popular Gate Boulder. Follow the trail through switchbacks more or less straight up to the obvious dihedrals. Some scrambling is required before getting to the base of the climbs.
9 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dihedrals Area:
Satan's Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Lisa's Shoulder 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Fallen Angel Variation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Equipment Overhang Right 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Black and White John and Mary 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Stem the Tide 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Equipment Overhang 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 70'
Featured Route For Dihedrals Area
Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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