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Dihedrals Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T 
Core Shot S 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Incubator S 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Premature T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S 

Dihedrals Area  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 20, 2004


71° | 51°

75° | 54°

69° | 44°
Columbus Day

64° | 48°

70° | 50°
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...

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The Dihedrals Area portion of the Gate Buttress has many fine climbs, most being dihedrals! Nearly all the routes are 5.9 or harder, except for Satan's Corner (5.8). For the most part, the climbs are single pitch with not much fixed gear.

Getting There 

Park at the pull-outs 1 1/4 miles up the canyon. This is the same spot as used for the Schoolroom area. Find a climber's trail just west of the parking which cruises past the popular Gate Boulder. Follow the trail through switchbacks more or less straight up to the obvious dihedrals. Some scrambling is required before getting to the base of the climbs.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dihedrals Area:
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Lisa's Shoulder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fallen Angel Variation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Dihedrals Area

Featured Route For Dihedrals Area
My anonymous partner showing me how easy the stems...

Black and White John and Mary 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cut...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By jpimsler
Sep 26, 2015
Hey! Lost my keys on 9/25 at the base of the Satans Crack belay station. Keys are attached to a green carabiner and are a car key, car remote, 3 house keys, momentum pass. If you go up there and find them or if you find them on the approach somewhere please let me know! jpimsler@gmail.com
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