|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Nate "Mustang" Johnson on Aug 7, 2007|
|Comments on Dihedral||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jul 9, 2009
|3 bolts up top, 2 with rap chains. Need medium slings to top rope, as the bolts are a little far back (2 feet or so) Fun little climb for where its at. You can easily walk to the top of the route, would have to use gear to lead|
By Christopher Michaelson
Oct 1, 2009
Ortega Falls is a good place to bring beginner climbers (I actually cut my teeth there way back in 1994), or to try out new gear in a forgiving environment. The 5.7 on the left has plenty of holds, while offering a decent amount of exposure. The 5.9 to the right is most likely rated as such because of the crux (a 5' long 5.9 crack that's at about 3/8 of the way up the route); once you're past the crux, it really turns into a 5.6.
There are three bolts on the top for top roping; one is a bit shady and the other two have hangers that are very loose (along with nice rap rings). Due to the placements, it's difficult to get biners between the hangers and the rock, and you also have to be careful to not let your biners fulcrum on the rock. Fortunately, there is a large boulder about 4 feet behind the bolts that you can sling, and there are plenty of cracks in which you can place cams, nuts, etc.
I usually put a locker on all three hangers and create an equalized figure 8 from a 10m x 7mm cord. I then back it up with a cam (if I'm in a rush) or webbing/slings around the aforementioned boulder. The 10m cord provides an anchor that's long enough to extend over the edge.
When you're done with the TR, it's a great place to rapp as well. There is a nice ledge just below where your master would/should be. Weight your rapp device and enjoy the 60' drop down below.
There are other places to climb as well, including some falls up and to the right. Look for some old bolts, but be careful trusting them.
By BIG Climber
From: Irvine, CA
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Nice little spot. It was 95 degrees at the car but nice, cool and shady at the bottom of the climb. Took the family and had a great time. Take care on the hike in, there is several spots with Poison Oak.|