Climb the dihedral, then up and over a blocky section. Most build a belay here or continue up a short distance to a bolted belay. The second pitch climbs a slab to the base of the headwall, exit left to the top or rap from anchors here.
Dihedral is located just past the colored routes on the main face and just before you get to the "cable area." Look for the obvious right-facing dihedral.
Standard gear. Look for bolted belays along the way. There are also great spots to build a belay as well.
Me following on Dihedral.
Robert raps off P1 of Dihedral at Mount Yonah
mid overlap on the Dihedral Oct. 08
Starting the fun overlap on the Dihedral, Oct. 08
Leading the part just above the first big ledge. ...
|By Joey Wolfe|
Oct 12, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
This is a great route to get on if you are new to the trad game( or not new). I recommend doing it as one pitch to the bolted belay and then rapping, instead of belaying off gear at the first large ledge. The climbing to the head wall after the bolted belay is barely 5th class.
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun route for the grade. Pro is thin on the start; I got my first piece in about 20' off the deck. After that, there's plenty of great placements on up to the anchors.
I don't know how most people start this route, but the namesake dihedral didn't have any nice crack to use down low, so I started on the slab to the right, which took me up to my first placement in the dihedral. The holds get more positive from there.
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2011
Like Saxfiend said, you can climb the slab to the right of the corner until you reach the undercling for gear. Belaying at the first big ledge is just a waste of time and rope, it's less than 30 meters total from the ground to the two bolt belay and there's some nice climbing in that upper section.
Mar 11, 2013
Did this over the weekend (3/10/13) as my first trad lead. Fun route, well protected. I over-placed and put a small nut about 6' off, a 0.3 TCU about 11' off and then gear placements become very obvious. Used several Camp tricams in the pockets.
|By Josh Arntzen|
Oct 5, 2013
Finally got around to doing the second pitch. IMO, it's not really worth it. The first pitch is really nice, and I've always just led up to the bolted rap rings at the top of P1 and rapped from there.