Dihedral is also posted on this site as Cornered. Climb Your Basic Lieback and set up a belay. There is a rap station to your left, but it is easier to stay near the recess where Dihedral, Wired, and Forbidden Planet begin (see Rossiter's sketch on page 136 of his new guide).
Climb through a short rotten section, then head into the obvious dihedral and cut left and climb around the left side of a positive flake. Going straight up the steep finger crack is solid 5.9 (see the description for Cornered). Once on top of the ramp, move up and right to the anchor on top of Forbidden Planet.
Rap down and slightly left on a rotten band to another rap station. One more rap with a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground (just barely).
Rossiter lists this climb as a 5.9-, but his sketch shows the flake variation as 5.7. I led it and I believe the 5.7 rating shown in the sketch. Linked with Your Basic Lieback, this makes for high quality moderate climb, as well as a great warm up for Star Wars.
A standard Eldo rack. Cams in the finger to hand sizes.
Interesting that this climb was put in the database as a 5.7. If you look it up in the Rossiter book he has the left variation (this description) going left of the flake at 5.9-. If you look at the topo it is shown as 5.7.
This is a common issue in the Rossiter guide, the descriptions are rated higher than the topos. But which one is right then?
I lead it a couple of weeks ago and it is not 5.7. It felt 5.9ish to me. Grant it the tough part is not long but still... Maybe a really hard 5.8? Certainly harder then Reggea...
The "straight up" variation is 5.9 and requires, at least the way I did it, some pretty wide stemming to be able to free at least one hand.
All in all fun pitch either way.
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jun 14, 2003 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Not even close to 5.9.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2003 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I led this recently and I don't think it is 5.7. The crux is the last 5 feet, you can put in a #2-#3 Camalot from the undercling and then go for it. Don't try to place anything after this or it will feel like 5.9 for sure (it's a short fall anyway). Fun pitch, no matter exactly what it's rated.
Did this route today and found that the bolts up and right of the top of the route will give you a one rope rap with a 60m rope to the ledge at the base of Your Basic Lieback. Our rope was about two feet off the deck.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co May 7, 2006 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
The flake offers very secure hand jams with a bumpy face below for delicate footwork, followed by a move or two of strong but secure liebacking. The whole pitch protects very well except for maybe the last move or two. It's a seven (maybe a hard seven).
GEAR BETA: the dihedral prior to the flake eats up small to midsize nuts and has good stances. The scary looking triangular block in the right wall seems very secure. A yellow Alien goes in the corner just below the flake, and you can get a #2 Camalot followed by a #3 Camalot in under the flake.
By Merlin From: Grand Junction Apr 20, 2007 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c
I'm just breaking into 5.7+/5.8 routes this summer and after a ton of climbing in this range over the last couple months I would say this is harder than other sevens I've been on. It felt harder than Reggae and easier than the crux on Long John Wall so I think a 5.8 might be in line.
The route protects superbly though and you can plug a couple #2 or #3 C4s at the start of the flake then go for it. The hands are bomber and once you start moving the crux is over before you know it.
A 60 Meter will just get you back down to the ledge between Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars if you follow the line down through the trees. Make sure to knot your ropes though.
I give it a 7. If you keep moving through the crux and stay focused, it's a cakewalk. Hang around and place gear on it, you just sandbagged yourself. I'll give that 9 variation an 8+ at best, there are obscure but good feet all the way up it. All in all, it's a great intro to 5.7 Eldo climbing.
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Oct 26, 2007 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
I really liked this route. Two #2 Camalots protected the crux nicely, the rest of the route ate nuts. If you set up a belay at the crack with the rope and sit back on the ridge you can get some great pics of your partner (see photo). Look up about 20 feet for the glue-ins on top of Forbidden Planet (marked) and you can rap to the West a full 60M with rope stretch. We had a shortish 60M rope and had to downclimb 5 feet on very easy ground. Every ledge we were on was full of death blocks, wear a helmet!
By Chris Zeller From: Boulder, CO May 6, 2008 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This really should be considered the second pitch of Basic Lieback. Done from the ground this route is a 3-pitch classic.
I think its something in between 7 and 9-. My partner placed a cam under the flake and I felt very postive until I had to retrieve it....
By Rob Hibit From: Denver, CO Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c PG13
Nice Climb! Great Pro on the climb. I think the crux was 5.8- but I placed pro during the moves so it was probably harder than it needed to be. If you move through the crux without placing gear it is probably easier.
Did this as a second pitch to YBL. Very high quality. Definitely would have felt like 5.9 if you try to place during the crux. Also, there is a little bulge above the anchors at the top that you can continue up and add another 20 feet to the climb (this ends right where Star Wars ends).
By Ben Burnett From: Colorado Sep 14, 2010 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
7? True that the crux is short, but it's harder than most Eldo 8s. I challenge you to list 5.7s at Eldo that are harder or on par with this.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 15, 2010
Ben, FWIW, there are 2 versions to finish this. To the right feels easier, 5.7. To the left is harder and probably 9-, briefly.