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Dihedral Variation is a great alternate start to Bihedral Arete.
Try it the next time you go up to do Bihedral Arete -- you won't be disappointed.
EDIT: The following text was added by someone other than me, and is not my opinon: ("The protection is good -- two bolts were added with permission from the FA Jim Erickson in February 2009. The dead bush at the crux was removed, dirt cleaned from the crack, and lichen brushed off the walls of the dihedral. It's a fun, physical climb that deserves to see more traffic on lead.")
This is the shallow dihedral between Bihedral Route
and Bihedral Arete
. Climb up the right face using holds on the arete, then work back left to the corner.
EDIT: The following text was added by someone other than me, and is not my opinon: ("Two bolts protect the crux, with good gear placements before and after. Exit right at the top of the dihedral, and continue up p1 of Bihedral Arete
You can rap 100' from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of p1 of Bihedral Arete with a 60m rope, or continue up p2 of Bihedral Arete (10a), or up the last pitch of Flags of Our Fathers
(9), and descend via two rappels.
2 bolts and gear from small wires to a 0.75" cam (green Camalot) for the initial dihedral, then QDs and gear to 2" for the rest of p1 of Bihedral Arete. 2-bolt anchor at the top of p1 of Bihedral Arete.
By Alex A
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fun, with weird moves, not straight forword, my friends are sold at 5.9+, they could not do it, seams more like 5.10 to me, harder the the regular route,