|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tim C on Apr 23, 2012|
|Comments on Dihedral Route||Add Comment|
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From: Bear Creek, CO
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.
I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3.
By Jay Eggleston
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|I had a 4" piece, but the largest I used was a 3" piece. I saw places for a 4" piece, but I don't think it is necessary|
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.
The "Good" gear placements near the top are on some precarious blocks. I sure wouldn't want to take a whipper and have the forces of the cams loosen those blocks. I only say that because I have had a similar failure of the rock while at Morrison.