Digital Readout 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Alan Lester, Chip Chace |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Feb 1, 2002 |
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Into the meat of the pitch
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Description Ouch. This is the obvious and painful looking fingers crack just left of the Cave Route. The first 35-40 feet are tough, but do-able, with the assorted features on the face for feet. The last fifteen feet to the anchors are just incredibly hard, a fingertips crack with very few foot features. I still haven't figured out this crux.
Protection small stuff- nothing bigger than 1.5
Entering the crux
| Mr. Trippett getting Digitalized!
| This is what this route keeps doing to my finger b...
| Giving D.R. another redpoint attempt. (Photo taken...
| BETA PHOTO: -
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| Comments on Digital Readout |
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By Anonymous Coward Nov 14, 2002
| The crux is easy: Jam really hard in the first 40' so that your fingers are numb by the time you get to the rest before the crux. Rest at the last footholds, bite your tongue, paste your feet and f--ing crank to the chains! |
By Andy Johnson Jun 21, 2004 rating: 5.12c
| I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough. |
By SirVato From: Boulder Sep 5, 2006
| No where near a clean lead, I ended up aiding the upper half. But. . . 2 Blue aliens and 6 or so green is all you need for this pitch!! My fingers still hurt.. . |
By m-earle From: Concord, MA Oct 30, 2006
| tough moves getting off the ground. decent fingers for the middle, one or two foot rests, but the last 15 feet the crack goes back to tips. if you send this route, dont expect to have anything left resembling fingers. |
By SirVato From: Boulder Mar 13, 2007
| The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!! Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!! Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!! Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!! |
By charley graham Nov 26, 2009
| In the 1988 American Alpine Journal, Eric Bjornstad contributed that this route was put up by Alan Lester and Chip Chace. |
By Steven Lucarelli From: Moab, UT Mar 22, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c
| I'm not sure where you would place two blue Aliens, maybe at the start if your short? Green Aliens and .3 Camalots are all you need for this climb. I think 7 or 8 will sew it up. |
By Keith Beckley From: Santa Fe Oct 22, 2011
| I wanted to try this on TR but really couldnt get my fingers in much.....i thought id break em if i fell...SUPER hard for big fingers....or im just lame..5.13 tips for me |
By Tommy L-D Jan 26, 2012
| Destroyed my fingers, never were the same for the rest of the trip. ...But it hurt sooo good |
By Skylar Smith Apr 17, 2012
| More like digital bleedout than digital readout. Shredded my fingers.....not fun! |
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