Digital Extraction  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82 Submitted By:  aschwartz on Nov 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>> 5/31/2013 The NPS has announced that the North Face of Devil's Tower is temporarily closed for nesting prairie falcons until further notice. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please see www.nps.gov/ns/deto/planyourvisit/junevoluntaryclosure.htm For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with an incredibility balancing thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

Location 

First crack right(south)of El Matador

Protection 

Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.