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Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Johnny and Stella Adams, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Tom Painter on Jul 20, 2002
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Brent Pohlmann nearing the crux on Digital Dilemma...

Description 

Digital Dilemna starts ~10' left of Dyno Arete through a blocky bulge and runs up the slab to a scooped dihedral (2 bolt anchor). Established by Johnny and Stella Adams, the 55 year old retirees from England, the route is characterized by its variety of necessary techniques. It is a fun route with a devious crux. "Yes, your foot will stay on it ...."


Protection 

8 bolts.



Comments on Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) Add Comment
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By Lon Black
Sep 22, 2004

I say this because the second clip on the crux face is spicy. Shameful beta: As you start going up the crux face and you get to the odd rounded spot (as the crack stops running vertical and gets really thin) where you can't get a lock but you can stick your middle finger in somewhat, try to do this with your left hand rather than your right hand. My partner and I made the same mistake using the right hand which becomes kinda obvious after one more move. Using the left middle finger allows one to move a touch farther right and utilize a couple other holds.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 7, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Maybe I'm being soft with my 12a rating, but I thought this was THIN. I have no advice for the crux. However, I have some advice for the section just below the anchors. You end up in this dihedral and the last bolt is placed so that it is very difficult to clip from inside the dihedral unless you are 6'5". Don't worry about clipping this from below. Reach across to a crimper on the left face of the dihedral, and then jump for the horn on the arete. Your feet will swing, but it's a solid hold. Do a partial mantel and then clip the last bolt from there. Then, complete the awkward mantel, match your feet onto the mantel, and then you can tenuously stand and clip the anchors. It's a great finish and a nice burly move which complements the super thin face moves at the crux. I'd also like to point out that 'dilemma' has no 'n'.

By Tom Painter
Aug 20, 2006

OK, make it .12a - that's what everyone has said since I posted it at .11d, so there it is. It is thin either way and Johnny glissed it, so it could be pretty much anything!

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Blocky roof moves on thin-ish hands, underclings, crimps, layback to mantel, stemming, balancy footwork, step-through. In short, variety galore. Lotsa 11 moves and one gen-u-ine 12a crux. Awesome climbing and well bolted.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?).