Starts nice crack then into thin 15 ft chimney. Chimney is a lot of work, especially if you are big. Good pro in the bag of the chimney then pull bulge and continue on nice fingers, tight hands to top. Rap off.
Right around the corner from chicken fingers - past the first steep crack. Look for a very narrow chimney about 20 feet above.
Small to large cams, nuts. triples or quads in the .75 size.
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 25, 2010
This climb is great-lots of variation-off width (wear long sleeves)-and nice thin-ish crack-yaya!!!
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Trying to get myself through the slot wasted me for the rest of the climb. I was happy to have three .75 camalots
|By Chris Prewitt|
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
An all-around great climb. Pulling out of the chimney section was so much fun. The dihedral was loaded with good stances and nice flat jugs. Not sure why it was given a PG13, I thought it was well protected and the rock was good.
Jun 20, 2012
Definitely an amazing climb, especially the squeeze! The long sleeve shirt beta is key. I also used a knee pad that helped too (my squeeze chimney form isn't that great, yet). I also suggest triples of .5 and .75. I agree with the PG13 rating: it's definitely one of the safest routes in the canyon and can be protected practically every vertical foot from the bottom to the top.