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From the a belay at a fixed angle (pin) and a bolt (semi-hanging belay) or alternately from a bolt at the base of the slab, work up and right past two bolts (left if starting from the single bolt) to a cluster of large knobs. Pull over the knobs to a steep headwall. Pull the headwall using a couple protruding knobs and pass a large block, on the right, on fine three-finger pockets. Continue climbing on amazing knobs and the occasional pocket. After the 5th bolt the average lessens. Near the top trend to the right to chain anchors.
Northwest buttress of the Jukebox formation in the Zona Rosa area.
From the belay, with the bolt & fixed pin, this is the line of bolts on the right.
9 bolts & chain anchors.
- ** Two or three 12" draws would be desirable as the 3rd, 5th, and 6th bolts are situated such that the lower carabiner on short draws interacts badly with large knobs.
A trio of climbers at the base of "Unknown" (5.10a...
|By jeffrey thomas|
Oct 20, 2013
Ten feet left of Diesel is a recent new line. I am told this was put up by the same accent team as Diesel. I played on this line four years ago. This was a super fun lead today. I enjoyed the added distance between the last three bolts. Spicy. Only bad note was the position of the massive anchor. Too far left of the last bolt. It should of been added to the right side. This current placement will force one to lower in the middle of the face,a no wheres-land. When lowering, realize, you must go the right for the solid ground. Seven bolts to the anchor. A comfortable three star 5.9. Jump on it!