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Aguja Frey
Routes Sorted
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Diedro de Jim (5) T 
Los Museos T 
Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers T 
Lost Fingers T 
Perfil del Mujer T 
Sifuentes Weber T 
Unsorted Routes:

Diedro de Jim (5) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Donini
Page Views: 2,781
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: A general overview of some of the routes on Aguja ...

Description 

A delicious, easily accesible two pitch route with great crack climbing.

P1 Climb a beautiful dihedral with great gear to a two bolt anchor at a small stance where the crack moves onto the right face (5.8 140ish')

P2 Traverse right and, while screaming with joy, jam your way up the splitter hand/wide hand crack to the top of the formation and a two bolt anchor (5.6 50ish')

Descent: With two ropes, rap from top o' pitch two to the base of the climb.

Location 

The route is located just up and right of Lost Fingers. From the Refugio Emilio Frey, ascend to the base of Aguja Frey and stay right. Ascend fourth class terrain for 40' and then continue up and along the base until you can't go any further and are at the base of a beautiful dihedral.

Protection 

A standard rack of nuts and SLCDs to 3.5 inches is fine.


Photos of Diedro de Jim (5) Slideshow Add Photo
unknown Brazilian climber on la fissura de Jim
unknown Brazilian climber on la fissura de Jim
Juan Quierolo jamming P2 on Diedro De Jim
Juan Quierolo jamming P2 on Diedro De Jim
Juan belaying me on P2 as I climb the splitter crack
Juan belaying me on P2 as I climb the splitter cra...
The scramble up to the climb is VERY steep 4th class. Highly recommend a rope if you're taking an inexperienced climber up. <br /> <br />Don't miss it!
The scramble up to the climb is VERY steep 4th cla...

Comments on Diedro de Jim (5) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 26, 2008

Pitch 2: Traverse right and...
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Sep 28, 2008

Yeah your right, sometimes I get my left and rights mixed up. Ill fix that.
By Ethan Neff
Jun 30, 2009

With a few long runners this can be done as one pitch with a 70m rope. However, you'll have to rap twice unless you bring a second rope. Awesome climb!
By David Appelhans
From: Lafayette
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It can also be done in one pitch with a 60m.
By Medic741
From: Pittsford, New York
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Wonderful climb. The exposure on P2 is pretty stiff after the traverse. Bring a big cam if you have it, the wonderful hand crack is a weird OW size for the first few moves and feels VERY exposed if you don't have a big piece. Without it a fall would be very ill advised...
By Kevin DB
Feb 26, 2013

You can also walk off/scramble down the back side of it. Pretty cool and mellow and safe.
By chipacles
Jan 25, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this Dec 2013. I recommend doing it in one pitch.