Diedro de Jim (5)
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Juan belaying me on P2 as I climb the splitter cra...
A delicious, easily accesible two pitch route with great crack climbing.
P1 Climb a beautiful dihedral with great gear to a two bolt anchor at a small stance where the crack moves onto the right face (5.8 140ish')
P2 Traverse right and, while screaming with joy, jam your way up the splitter hand/wide hand crack to the top of the formation and a two bolt anchor (5.6 50ish')
Descent: With two ropes, rap from top o' pitch two to the base of the climb.
The route is located just up and right of Lost Fingers. From the Refugio Emilio Frey, ascend to the base of Aguja Frey and stay right. Ascend fourth class terrain for 40' and then continue up and along the base until you can't go any further and are at the base of a beautiful dihedral.
A standard rack of nuts and SLCDs to 3.5 inches is fine.
Juan Quierolo jamming P2 on Diedro De Jim
BETA PHOTO: A general overview of some of the routes on Aguja ...
unknown Brazilian climber on la fissura de Jim
The scramble up to the climb is VERY steep 4th cla...
|Comments on Diedro de Jim (5)
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 26, 2008
Pitch 2: Traverse right and...
|By Jared Spaulding|
From: Central WY
Sep 28, 2008
Yeah your right, sometimes I get my left and rights mixed up. Ill fix that.
|By Ethan Neff|
Jun 30, 2009
With a few long runners this can be done as one pitch with a 70m rope. However, you'll have to rap twice unless you bring a second rope. Awesome climb!
|By David Appelhans|
Sep 14, 2009
It can also be done in one pitch with a 60m.
From: Pittsford, New York
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 PG13
Wonderful climb. The exposure on P2 is pretty stiff after the traverse. Bring a big cam if you have it, the wonderful hand crack is a weird OW size for the first few moves and feels VERY exposed if you don't have a big piece. Without it a fall would be very ill advised...
|By Kevin DB|
Feb 26, 2013
You can also walk off/scramble down the back side of it. Pretty cool and mellow and safe.