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Diedre 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63
Page Views: 21,851
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006

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looking up as my partner leads the fun pitches on ...

Description 

Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.

P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.

P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.

P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.

P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.

P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.

P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.

Location 

Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.

To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).

Protection 

Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.


Photos of Diedre Slideshow Add Photo
I think the 3rd pitch.
I think the 3rd pitch.
The Fabric of my Dreams
The Fabric of my Dreams
Starting up Dierdre - it's steeper than it looks!
Starting up Dierdre - it's steeper than it looks!
Joanne Robertson somewhere on the first three pitches of Diedre.  With a 70m rope you can link all three of the first pitches.
Joanne Robertson somewhere on the first three pitc...
Joanne finishing the fourth pitch of Diedre.
Joanne finishing the fourth pitch of Diedre.
Looking across the P2 traverse
BETA PHOTO: Looking across the P2 traverse
Looking up at P3 and the start of the long corner from the P2 belay.
Looking up at P3 and the start of the long corner ...
Pitch 4 or 5
Pitch 4 or 5
I thought that I had died and gone to well....  Squamish
I thought that I had died and gone to well.... Sq...
Kimberly enjoying the clean cracks!
Kimberly enjoying the clean cracks!
diedre
diedre
Diedre from the Apron parking lot, highlighting the mid-day conga line of people you'll often find on this great, but popular!, route.
Diedre from the Apron parking lot, highlighting th...
The Money pitches!
The Money pitches!
Diedre.
Diedre.
Can you say kid in a candy store?
Can you say kid in a candy store?
Free soloing Deidre....haha.
Free soloing Deidre....haha.
Andy on Diedre, July 2010
Andy on Diedre, July 2010
Giving you a better idea of what the route is like with a panorama.
BETA PHOTO: Giving you a better idea of what the route is like...

Comments on Diedre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2014
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 10, 2007

One can link Pitches 2 and 3 (as they are described here) with a 60m rope.
By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Diedre also makes a good first simul-climb. The rating is easy, the gear, aside from the runout slab portions, is plentiful and solid. And it'll get you past the multitude of parties that commonly choke the route's belay bolts.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

have fun, but be careful if its wet. the top out is really wet right now and felt pretty spooky, but at least the gear is good.

great climb, would have been a 5 star route if it had been dry!
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun as a start to Ultimate Everything. We linked p1+p2, p3+p4, and p5+p6, but note pitch lengths as so nicely described above: this involves a fair amount of simulclimbing, at 5.8 (though it's quite soft at this grade). Bring as many finger-sized cams as you want, or perhaps a double set of stoppers - it eats pro!
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 19, 2009

was a great climb!!! loved it!
By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

An excellent route if you're looking to be introduced to The Chief.

My wife and I had only one day in Squamish and chose Diedre. It was a good choice to say the least.

Definitely link pitches 2 and 3 to save time. The crack is likely wet most of the time but, if you can keep your shoes dry, it's still very climbable and enjoyable.

The last pitch is super runout until the final few moves. Find a piton in a seem to your right, protect below it with a BD #2 and make a bouldery move over the ledge to the trees.

The exit through trees is beautiful.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route though but, often busy. If it is, there are a ton of other fantastic options right there. Pretty low angle the whole way, bring some smaller gear for the corner, plenty of nuts.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Climbed this today. With a 70m you can link pitches 1+2, 3+4, 5+6 to do Diedre in 3 long pitches total. You'll need to use long runners in a few places but the rope drag shouldn't be too bad. I know this sounds ridiculous, but really the pitch length estimates above are just way over-estimated.
By EMT
Oct 10, 2012

If this is 5.8...Nutcracker must be 5.10. Nothing harder than 5.6 on this route.
By aaronfm
Jun 25, 2014

I tried to link pitches 5-6 with a (new) 70m rope and came up ~10m short, so it seems some simul-climbing is necessary even with a 70.