|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||[Duncan Ferguson,unroped solo]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Aug 2, 2001|
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|Comments on Die Heeda Rule||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bill Wright
Sep 13, 2001
|I think climbing the prow just [right] of the crack is the only way to make this route 11b. It does get you at least ten feet above gear on 5.11 climbing. I think the rating climbed this way is probably 11b. Climbing the crack straight-on seems like it would be more like 5.12. Much, much harder. So, I sort of how the ratings reversed to Tony. I've climbed it (or tried - I couldn't climb the crack) both ways.|
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 3, 2003
|Bill, I'm glad to see someone else feels that way (i.e., 5.12ish) about climbing the crack straight on. I couldn't do it free even while following today!|
By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2005
By Jason Haas
Jan 15, 2006
|I lead this route today and felt that the grade for climbing the crack straight on was accurate. I think you just need the right beta for it, but the moves were not bad at all|
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A very nice, short, steep route. Great rock quality. I climbed it jamming with my left and slapping up the arete with my right, and was able to have gear the entire time, felt 11a or so. My wife led it straight on and said it felt about 11a also.
Gear for it is from 0.3 (blue) Camalot to 0.5 Camalot. Basically finger-sized cams. Stoppers would be a little harder to place as the constrictions are subtle.
To descend, head to the right (downhill/south) when you get up to the gnarly juniper, and there is a tree to rap off of that will take you down the big chockstone chimney, pretty close to the base of the route.