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Apr 6, 2014
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. White...
Off of the 2nd pitch of "Pony Express" last week? If you did I have your bail rig... BD makes only one micro smaller than this, you lowered of a body weight piece of gear in a marginal placement. I literally climbed past it and lifted it out of the crack, it was not "set."

If you would have climbed another 2ft (free or aid) you would have been able to lower off the stopper I replaced a few days prior (which was terribly frayed). I'm posting pictures to show your RP, and the wire I replaced. If you want your bent #2 micro stopper back feel free to Pm me and I'll get it to you. Glad I didn't see an accident thread related to this... I looked.

Your wire, hardly bigger than a grain of rice.
Your wire, hardly bigger than a grain of rice.


#4 BD I replaced.
#4 BD I replaced.
Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 26, 2011
348 points
Apr 6, 2014
Mashers Tower
Maybe they whipped on it and were unable or unwilling to climb further...shit happens? Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Apr 7, 2014
Colombian Crack
Ryan Kempf wrote:
you lowered of a body weight piece of gear in a marginal placement...I'm posting pictures to show your RP


Posting in this way is a real turd move.

Ryan Kempf wrote:
Glad I didn't see an accident thread related to this... I looked.


I bet you looked. Then you would have felt soo smart, being able to humblebragshame some poor fool. Mr. Kempf, you are a turd.
Maurice Chaunders
Joined Sep 21, 2010
11 points
Apr 7, 2014
2nd pitch of Womb.
sprigedy-spray michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
18 points
Apr 7, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
What is that saying about assuming things?? Why do you care so much if this guy has balls the size of Bayonne and will bail off shit you consider marginal with not a scratch to show for it? ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Apr 7, 2014
Look.  Imma git them coconut chips.  Trust.
Sometimes I'll solo a route, place a micronut with some webbing tied to it on the way up, just so some maggot will get upset about a pretend-bail-scenario.

It's all for the lulz, folks.
Adam Burch
Joined Jan 9, 2012
622 points
Apr 7, 2014
I am so glad to learn that nobody has ever, in the history of rock climbing, accidentally left a piece of gear in the rock, and then decided that climbing back up to retrieve a BD micronut wasn't worth the trouble. Jamespio
Joined Sep 6, 2013
6 points
Apr 7, 2014
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. White...
When I saw the rig up close I thought to myself whoever bailed on this thing really knows what they're doing… Or has no clue. Choosing this piece to bail on was an attempt to save some cash (nothing wrong with that), there’s plenty of larger/better gear in and around that section. But hey I get it, leave a piece you’ll prob never use free climbing. Hell I was a little impressed at the moment, but was a little unnerved by the quality of the placement.

Pic of the location of the fixed wire.

mountainproject.com/v/10636739...
Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 26, 2011
348 points
Apr 7, 2014
J Clarks
This guy's just a badass, not a noob. I mean, one time I lowered off of a slung chicken head, and I was horribly scared- that's nothing compared to this. Much respect. Kyle Kimball
From Asheville, NC
Joined Sep 17, 2011
61 points
Apr 8, 2014
Just thought I'd mention that there are safe ways of backing off a route from a sketchy piece if you are leading that route on double ropes:
have your belayer lower you on the rope clipped in the sketchy piece, and at the same time take slack in on the other rope (this is a bit tricky to do, but entirely doable with a bit of care). This keeps you protected by whatever pieces are clipped to that second rope, just like when you were leading the route a bit earlier. You remove your gear as you pass by it coming down as usual, just making sure that your belayer is indeed taking the slack out of the second rope.

If the sketchy piece above blows, you'll take a "leader" fall until the other rope catches you on one of your lower pieces. Of course, you are relying on only about 1/2 of your lead pieces for backup, so fall distances if the upper piece blows could be long, but it's still better than no backup at all.

Also, if/when you reach a more solid piece/potential placement as you are being lowered, you can always decide to leave that other piece in as well (or place one) and now get your belayer to lower you on both ropes simultaneously.

I've used this method a few times in the past.
Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2004
153 points
Apr 8, 2014
Arlo in all his magnificence.
Ryan Kempf wrote:
the wire I replaced.


^ Thanks for taking the old nut out. It has always been a bummer that there was fixed gear there. Hopefully you didn't fix another nut there...
adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 1, 2001
665 points
Apr 8, 2014
the real question is... did you onsight it brah!?! and why is everything a "rig" now in climbing.. *yawn* gregmiller7
Joined Aug 27, 2006
279 points
Apr 8, 2014
Flatirons
Legit alpine belay anchor Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
Apr 8, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Ryan Watts wrote:
Legit alpine belay anchor


I would agree, Bridwell and Mugs rapped on something similar on the FA of the Dance of the Woo Li Masters, JIm talks about it in the article.
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,132 points
Apr 9, 2014
I'd kill a snitch
Lot of assumptions in that OP. Who in the hell would want to meet you to get that piece back and deal with your condescension face-to-face? The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
258 points
Apr 9, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Ryan. You should consider deleting your post. You are sounding toolish.

1. How do you know someone bailed on that nut.

2. Just cuz a nut lifts out when you climb past doesn't mean it is no good for a downward pull.

3. It is not always possible to set a nut but it may be all you get.

4. Is it possible someone took a lead fall on it and loward off

5. It is not uncommon in Eldo for that size piece to be the best gear you get at the crux on a route at that difficulty.

6. Obviously it held.

7. Did you really fix another nut after you cleaned the other. Really? Seriously?
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Apr 9, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
Greg D wrote:
Did you really fix another nut after you cleaned the other. Really? Seriously? Nuff said.


Lame
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Apr 9, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Lane that I said that or that he did that? Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Apr 10, 2014
Aiding. Photo by Locker.
So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set?

The definition of set that I know would most certainly be activated by putting your body weight onto the piece as you lowered.

And un-set piece indicates that it was NOT used for lowering.
teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2012
636 points
Apr 10, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
Greg D wrote:
Lane that I said that or that he did that?


That he did it, if that's what happened.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Apr 10, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
teece303 wrote:
So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set? The definition of set that I know would most certainly be activated by putting your body weight onto the piece as you lowered. And un-set piece indicates that it was NOT used for lowering.


"Set" often implies that the stopper won't wiggle around freely when you put relatively light force on the wire in any direction. The theory is that this implies a more secure placement...but a bad nut placement is a bad nut placement. Some of the best stoppers I've placed have wiggled around like no other (i.e. not "set") but have been trapped in a bomber constriction.
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Apr 10, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
teece303 wrote:
So how do you lower off of a nut that is not set? The definition of set that I know would most certainly be activated by putting your body weight onto the piece as you lowered. And un-set piece indicates that it was NOT used for lowering.


If there is not good surface contact the nut my not sit well. But it is still in a constriction that would make it ok to lower off. It may not take much effort to lift it upwards though.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Apr 10, 2014
Upper Parunuweap Canyon
Chill out people, Ryan and Wade watched a guy deck off of Wind Tower a few weeks back and he owes his survival to their prompt assistance.

Ryan, some guys reported a swarm hornets on P2 of Pony Express when I was up there on the 30th. Not saying it's their nut, but it may explain a hasty retreat.
fossana
From Sin City & Bishop
Joined Apr 30, 2006
12,121 points
Apr 10, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Yeah. And I witnessed someone deck in the same spot 6 years ago. Then participated in the rescue. What does that have to do with this?

Yes. Bees do live in the second pitch of pony express.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Apr 10, 2014
Aiding. Photo by Locker.
Thanks for the clarification Greg and Ryan. I guess I don't really use the term 'set' that way. teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2012
636 points
Apr 10, 2014
Colombian Crack
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:
Lot of ass. Who in the hell would want to deal with your condescension face-to-face?


It's like I said. This guy reminds me of a dude I know. That dude is a total chode.

wade morris wrote:
Maurice you sir are a dipshit. All Ryan was getting at was there have been a string of injuries/accidents recently and lowering off a micronut is a pretty bad idea, especially with that tree right below you.


He wasn't "just saying". If it's a bad idea, live and let live. He checked the accident reports, so it wasn't an obvious accident. No post necessary, other than to offer reacquainting the gear with it's owner. Check the arrogance and condescension at the door.

wade morris wrote:
Maurice you sir are a dipshit.


Dipshit? This guy was acting like a tool. I called him on it. Chode is harmless. Calling me a dipshit takes it up a notch. Normally, I'm a pacifist. But I'd serve a chodeburger like you with a side of fries, mo freire/not really my friere.
Maurice Chaunders
Joined Sep 21, 2010
11 points


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