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Indecent Exposure
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Dicky Do 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Morning shade in summer. Killer Winter Sun After 11:00 am
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Oct 19, 2013
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jerry sacking up.

I look between my legs when I climb...cuz I like to see what my dicky do! 

Half this route is a sick slab blessed with a crazy sequence of pumpy, thought provoking crimps that leads to undercling heaven! Pull through a crux that requires strength, stamina, and the ability to negotiate very difficult, yet-fun moves on smaller than small ass holds. There is some distance between bolts on this one so you better show up with a good lead head and a willingness to sack up.

TRENDS LEFT! Pull a somewhat scary roof on SICK JUGS and move into some elevated territory with big moves to big holds on hard to read stone that is overhung like a muther. The climbing isn't hard but since you arrive here so pumped out of your frickin' mind the route challenges your mental stamina all the way to the anchors.

Full on throttling sickness on overdrive!


Location 

This is the line just to the right of Naughty Little Pillar.


Protection 

Bring 14 draws and a hard on for pain and agony.

Not for beginners. The run outs between bolts make this climb a contender for the more competent climber.



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