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z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)

Select Area...
a. The Bullwheel Faces 
b. The Playground 
c. The Clamshell Wall 
d. The Fortress 
e. The Right End 

z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.7447, -74.21469 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,724
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on May 8, 2013  with updates from Phredward
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BETA PHOTO: Clamshell Wall, Dickie Barre

Description 

Let us know what you think of the "new" area within Peterskill (opened April 2013! Thank the Gunks Climbers' Coalition for their sustained efforts towards this access).

A bit of nomenclature to keep the discussion useful: from left to right the cliff is broken into 5 very general sections:

1) The Bullwheel Faces - the short faces approximately within sight of the concrete block atop the old ski hill.

2) The Playground - from the pair of huge white pine trees rightwards to the huge, imposing roof. The roof has a couple projects but apparently no completed routes yet.

3) The Clamshell Wall - the tall face that is mostly grey, with many horizontals. It sorta resembles the Trapps and the left end of it starts 7 ft above a large rectangular boulder. There are about 8 distinct lines that mostly follow vertical cracks/grooves and 6 bolted anchors at various spots across the top.

4) The Fortress - from the Clamshell rightwards to the other huge imposing ceiling that is close to the blue trail. The Fortress features steep rock and mostly difficult lines.

5) The Right End - the huge roof to the end of the cliff.

As with so many PK routes, a length of static rope (60 ft) is often essential. Tread lightly and protect the trees, please.

Getting There 

... is a 12 minute walk. Go between the East and West cliffs, follow the road behind the Breakfast Wall, then follow signs to the Bullwheel Trail. Access trails around Dickie Barre are flagged with light green tape. The scramble to get up top is to the left of the Bullwheel Faces. There's also a low angle section just right of the Clamshell Wall; go up there to access the top of all Fortress and Right End routes.


Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff):
Departure   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   b. The Playground
Fine Pine Line   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   b. The Playground
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)

Featured Route For z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Rook

The Rook 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : b. The Playground
Climb up an easy, fun start. Turn right to face the rook. As it gets overhung, use the crack on the left, until you can traverse out, and pull up to the ledge. Climb the much easier section to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: in the Fortress area of Dickie Barre
in the Fortress area of Dickie Barre
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting on the Clamshell Wall on a gorgeous spr...
Onsighting on the Clamshell Wall on a gorgeous spr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Toprope fun on Dharmakaya (5.10c) at the Playgroun...
Toprope fun on Dharmakaya (5.10c) at the Playgroun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fortress area, Dickie Barre
BETA PHOTO: Fortress area, Dickie Barre
Rock Climbing Photo: Playground area, Dickie Barre
BETA PHOTO: Playground area, Dickie Barre
Rock Climbing Photo: South (left) and North (right) Bullwheel Face, Dic...
BETA PHOTO: South (left) and North (right) Bullwheel Face, Dic...

Comments on z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Add Comment
Show which comments
By tgsmith
From: NH
May 13, 2013
Any potential for bouldering/ already established problems around this new area?
By The Phoenix
May 29, 2013
From Above: "As with so many PK routes, a length of static rope (60 ft) is often essential. Tread lightly and protect the trees, please."

Isn't this kinda contradictory? Use the Trees for anchors! Oh ya, please protect them... so don't use them.

And I doubt there is any bouldering actually... I heard this was the one area at the gunks with 0 boulders.
By Gunkiemike
Jun 4, 2013
"Protect the trees" means:
- anchor off of bolts if they're there or gear when that's feasible. There will be more bolts added atop popular routes
- anchor off oak trees whenever possible rather than pitch pines
- pad the trunk
- use a tensionless hitch
- do not rappel directly off trees. The walk down is never that long
By klouie
Aug 12, 2013
Just climbed Dickie Barre this past weekend, nice relatively uncrowded climbing.

A friendly PSA reminder: the area is still relatively new, with potential for rockfall on routes without significant traffic yet. We climbed near the left side of the crag (just right of Fine Pine Line, I believe), and had a climber pull off a toaster-sized flake that looked otherwise unremarkable beforehand. Only luck and a quick reaction kept the belayer safe.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 16, 2013
Klouie - By any chance was that rock just below the top of the cliff, a few feet right of the large stacked boulders that mark the top-out?

I marked a surprisingly loose rock there with a chalked X several weeks ago. I knew it would wash off, but yea, that was a potentially dangerous block. The good news is it's no longer there, huh?

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