Dickey Ledge Rock Climbing
The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.
Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.
WMNF Fee Area!
There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
41 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dickey Ledge
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dickey Ledge:
Featured Route For Dickey Ledge
Members Only 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NH
: WM: Waterville Valley
: ... : The Ocean
I just know this is what everybody is looking for in a rock climb. Nearly one hundred feet of intense slabbing!After clipping the first bolt of Sex on the Beach break right and step onto a horizontal crack (red Camalot). Now on to the business micro crimp, edge, palm, and whatever else you can do to keep moving upward. Nearing the top the climbing seems to ease some.For the nature of this route I found the clipping stances far less than horrendous. They are actually quite friendly adding to...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
By bradley white
Feb 5, 2014
Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom
Nov 9, 2014
A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.
Also, the traverse in across the base of the cliff was not hard once you find the good climber's path.