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Dickey Ledge

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Backcountry, The 
Beach, The 
Central Tongue 
Dark Side, The 
East Slab 
Ocean, The 
South America Wall 

Dickey Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9179, -71.5871 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,995
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
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Me on learning to swim

Description 

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

Getting There 

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',5],['5.11',14],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dickey Ledge:
Dead Toe   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   The Beach
Goosebumps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Dark Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dark Side
Highway Star   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Lurking Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dark Side
Half Stack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   The Dark Side
Lurking in the Bushes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   The Dark Side
Slab Therapy   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Beach
Subversive Behavior   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   The Ocean
Boat Ramp   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Ocean
Hermits Hideout   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Dark Side
The Stack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'   The Dark Side
Spinning Wheels   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   The Beach
Fern Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Brain Cramp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 100'   The Ocean
The Horcrux   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South America Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dickey Ledge

Featured Route For Dickey Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Members Only is the left hand line. Brain Cramp is...

Members Only 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : WM: Waterville Valley : ... : The Ocean
I just know this is what everybody is looking for in a rock climb. Nearly one hundred feet of intense slabbing!After clipping the first bolt of Sex on the Beach break right and step onto a horizontal crack (red Camalot). Now on to the business micro crimp, edge, palm, and whatever else you can do to keep moving upward. Nearing the top the climbing seems to ease some.For the nature of this route I found the clipping stances far less than horrendous. They are actually quite friendly adding to...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Dickey Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dickey Ledge
Dickey Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Some Fungi
Some Fungi
Rock Climbing Photo: South America Flake 5.11
South America Flake 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview
BETA PHOTO: Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahh
Ahh
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick getting horizontal.
Nick getting horizontal.

Comments on Dickey Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
Feb 5, 2014
Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom
By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2014
A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, the traverse in across the base of the cliff was not hard once you find the good climber's path.

Jim

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