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Dickey Ledge

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Backcountry, The 
Beach, The 
Central Tongue 
Dark Side, The 
East Slab 
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South America Wall 

Dickey Ledge 


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Lat, Long: 43.9179, -71.5871 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
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Me on learning to swim

Description 

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.


Getting There 

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',8],['5.10',5],['5.11',12],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dickey Ledge:
Skiers Left   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   The Backcountry
Highway Star   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Goosebumps   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Slab Therapy   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Beach
Lurking in the Bushes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 70'   The Dark Side
Resident Evil   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 90'   The Dark Side
Subversive Behavior   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   The Ocean
Learn to Swim   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   The Ocean
Sex on the Beach   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Ocean
The Good Book   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South America Wall
South America Flake    5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Boat Ramp   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Ocean
Spinning Wheels   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport   The Beach
Fern Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Brain Cramp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 100'   The Ocean
Browse More Classics in Dickey Ledge

Featured Route For Dickey Ledge
Topping off

Lurking in the Bushes 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  NH : Waterville Valley : ... : The Dark Side
The always wet start adds character to this route. Just left of a birch tree growing from a horizontal crack climb a few wet moves to a beautiful finger crack. When it ends follow disconnected cracks up left to a left arching left facing corner to the top. Bolt belay....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Dickey Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Dickey Ledge
Dickey Ledge
Some Fungi
Some Fungi
Nick getting horizontal.
Nick getting horizontal.
South America Flake 5.11
South America Flake 5.11
Overview
BETA PHOTO: Overview
Ahh
Ahh
Comments on Dickey Ledge Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 5, 2014

Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom