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Dickey Ledge

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Backcountry, The 
Beach, The 
Central Tongue 
Dark Side, The 
East Slab 
Ocean, The 
South America Wall 

Dickey Ledge  

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Location: 43.9179, -71.5871 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
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The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

Getting There 

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dickey Ledge:
Brad and Tom's Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Central Tongue
Dead Toe   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   The Beach
Lurking Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dark Side
Highway Star   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Goosebumps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Lurking in the Bushes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   The Dark Side
Slab Therapy   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Beach
Resident Evil   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 90'   The Dark Side
Learn to Swim   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   The Ocean
Subversive Behavior   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   The Ocean
South America Flake    5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Sex on the Beach   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Ocean
The Good Book   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South America Wall
Boat Ramp   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Ocean
Spinning Wheels   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   The Beach
Fern Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Brain Cramp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 100'   The Ocean
The Horcrux   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South America Wall
Browse More Classics in Dickey Ledge

Featured Route For Dickey Ledge
Members Only is on the left and Brain Cramp is the...

Brain Cramp 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  NH : WM: Waterville Valley : ... : The Ocean
As good as it gets. Next bolted line right of Members Only. Hard climbing to the horizontal crack. Sustained climbing past the next three bolts to a reprieve on the right, More intricate climbing leads to a crack that is followed 20ft to chain anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Dickey Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Dickey Ledge
Dickey Ledge
Some Fungi
Some Fungi
Nick getting horizontal.
Nick getting horizontal.
South America Flake 5.11
South America Flake 5.11
BETA PHOTO: Overview

Comments on Dickey Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 5, 2014
Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom
By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2014
A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, the traverse in across the base of the cliff was not hard once you find the good climber's path.

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