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 ADVANCED
Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall
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Blind luck 
Blindsided 
Dick and Jeanie 
Glass Balls 
Green Lantern, The 
Hecks Arete 
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Kevin's Dihedral 
Mercy F**k 
One Hit Wonder 
Self Mutilation 
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Unknown, see below 

Dick and Jeanie 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Kutcher 1997
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 8, 2004
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Jay on Dick and Jeanne, July 2005.

Description 

Locate the next bolted route right of Self Mutilation. The climb is identified by thin cracks up a steep wall.

Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin, Dick and Jeanie features a steep start and a bouldery crux. The climbing remains asthetic despite its short height. A popular project route, given its straightforward moves and beautiful position.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Dick and Jeanie Slideshow Add Photo
Climb the parallel cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the parallel cracks.
Butt shot of Jay leading, July 2005.  Thanks Rhoads for reminding me about this climb, this is a great one!
Butt shot of Jay leading, July 2005. Thanks Rhoad...
Comments on Dick and Jeanie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 30, 2006

I noticed there is a bolt above the anchor...anyone have any info on the upper section? Are there more bolts, mixed pro, etc?

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 4, 2006

Rob,

I believe the guys who put these up came back and lowered the anchors on several of these routes. I think because the rock is a little more sugary up top.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This route is highly temperature and humidity dependent. First time I was on it was about 90F with high humidity, and we thought it was mid-5.12 for sure, very hard crux and the crimp out right was completely useless to make the crux move. Two weeks later, 20 degrees cooler and breezy, and it felt 11b. Fun route.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Great route up some amazing features. Felt like a mid 5.12 until I figured out the beta. The bottom is super powerful to a technical crux. Bolts are place terribly. Sketchy to clip the second bolt.