2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Step up and clip a bolt on the right, and traverse right to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge at its top. Climb a tricky slab past an overlap (crux), and continue straight up to the anchor.
To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.
An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.
Great route! We noticed three or four freshly bolted routes on the back of the spire-like outcropping to the left of Diamonds and Rust... do we have to wait for Bob's book (come onnnnn Aug 4!) to learn about these, too?
By Hiro From: Boulder, CO Jan 19, 2013 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Fun route! I didn't give it that much in terms of stars, but it has interesting climbing really - plenty of holds, but along with awkward angles and slab commitment required.