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The Red Slab
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Guy Lords
Page Views: 1,209
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: the start...

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This line exemplifies the best of Red Slab climbing - long, steep, continuous, and reasonably protected. Start in the short left-facing corner at the right end of the roof. Clip a bolt on the outside edge (added in 2001) to mitigate a groundfall, then reach out around the roof for the second clip. Once you pull out around the roof, you get fun, continuous 5.9/5.10 slab climbing all the way to the anchors. There really isn't any distinct crux - the hardest bit will be different for everyone based on reach and body type. This is a "must-do" route - one of the nicest pitches of its kind in the canyon.


Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.

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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 16, 2001

A nice route though I don't agree with Alan that it is a 3-star. The move pulling the roof at the start can go either on the right or left of the arete, left being easier on the crack up the corner. Right side I would suggest being quite stiff for 10b. The rest of the route is quite nice but I wouldn't say one of the best of its kind, seeing there really aren't any other walls like the Red Slab in the canyon. But all in all a good route. 2 stars.

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Jun 18, 2003

Wonderful climb in every way. Easily three stars. Must do.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 7, 2010

There is a great yellow Metolius offset MasterCam in a small pocket protecting what was for me the distinct crux about 2/3 of the way up. An Alien or similar might also work.