Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Shadow Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1st Offense T,S,TR 
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 
Desperado S 
Diamond S 
Eat Mo' Possum T 
Fat Man S,TR 
Fields of Fire S 
I Love a Mystery TR 
Lycra S 
Middle Man S 
Powerplay T,TR 
Pressure Drop S 
Shadow S,TR 
Shadow Traverse S 
Swallow T,S,TR 
THC S 
Thin Man S 
Three To Get Ready S 

Diamond 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Cirone, Ed Sampson
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Calf work out! The crux comes before the first clip, and many 5.9 climbers have slid off. Well worth it.

Protection 

3 bolts and two anchor bolts that are shared with Desperado.


Comments on Diamond Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a great friction climb on solid rock. The crux is getting high enough to clip the first bolt. A fall from here results in an awkward slide/fall to an ankle busting ledge. It is definately solid 5.9 here...dont fall. It IS possible to clip the first bolt on Battle of the Bulge (use a long runner). This gives the belayer enough time to yard in rope and jump off the ledge in time to stop a falling leader from hitting the ledge. (trust me...it works!)
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Even on a top rope it seemed much harder than any slab 5.9 in Yosemite (e.g., Marginal).
By Tyler Alves
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 11, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Awesome route. If you are climbing Desperado or Battle of the Bulge anyway, make sure to lead/ TR Diamond before you head out. You won't regret it.
Harder than similarly rated shadow wall routes, be careful.
By Jim Reynolds
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I dont see how Thin Man gets 5.9 R and this doesnt. I mean, come on, that first clip is terrifying. I led it today for the first time and honestly believed I was going to break my ankle.

PS This is THIN 5.9, not that juggy secure 5.9 that feels all nice and cozy.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Nov 23, 2014

Most serious lead on the wall. So intense up to bolt uno
By Internet Hardman
From: EARTH
Dec 12, 2014

^^^ (Coming from a guy that led Inner Sanctum)
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Morro Bay, California
May 12, 2016

Took a fall before bolt one. Actually trying to downclimb a move and try different beta for a good stance to clip. Hit the small ledge and was caught by my belayer on the big ledge. Came out ok but very shaken. Still haven't come back to finish the job. Those old school guys that put these routes up are bad ass mofos. Respect.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!