Diamond in the Crack 5.6
| 1,954 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Larry Day, Tom Seibert, 1974 |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Chris Chaney on Aug 29, 2006 |
| |
Leading Diamond In The Crack at the Red
Add Photo  Printer View
DESCRIPTION Looking southwest form the Gladie Visitor Center in he middle of the Red River Gorge you'll see Jewel Pinnacle. It is a distinct spire on the south side of the river. The route follows the crack that goes just right of the cat's nose and then between it's eyes to the summit.
At the base of the pinnacle you'll know the route when you find the steep dihedral that seems to go all the way to the top.
The ultimate crux of the route is the mid section of the thankfully short first pitch. If it were cleaner the first pitch would be much cooler.
The intermediate belay is on a comfy ledge, but you can build a nice gear anchor in a horizontal and "hang" on it.
You'll need a #4 or #4.5 camalot for the start of the second pitch but other than that the gear is mostly mid sizes. Just bring plenty of duplicates.
You can rap from the goofy anchors of scramble down to the southwest and then rap from the vegetated ledge off to the east. Beware of copperheads near the rap.
Kory (sorry, can't remember his last name) at the ...
|
Diamond in the Crack
|
Diamond in the Crack
|
Diamond in the Crack
|
Diamond in the Crack 2nd Pitch Start
|
Cross the River to this side to pick up the trail
|
The view from the top looking down on the visitor ...
| | |
| Comments on Diamond in the Crack |
|
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2006
| You can run P1&2 together without much drag if you are comfortable running it out a little and using long runners. |
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 4, 2007
| It's also possible to walk-off this route by scrambling down towards the Copperhead route from the top - no need to rappel. |
By Matt Thorum
From: Urbana, IL
Jun 14, 2009
| There is now a well extended and equalized webbing rappel anchor at the top of the route so you can easily rappel back down to the base with a 60m rope and pull the rope with no trouble. Thanks to whomever set this up. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 4, 2009
| In the late 70s we used to hike out to this spot from Chimney Top road. It was considered a real test of your "Gorge sense" to be able to thread your way across the ridges to find it! |
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
| Great line, best 5.6 in the Red. The bottom is a little dirty sometimes. New anchors now with extended chains so you can rap off without getting your rope stuck. Also you can put a .75 cam in the back of the wide part at the start of the 2nd pitch. |
By Kevin Wagner
Apr 30, 2013
| Careful! There is a wasp nest in the summit register container. |
|
RSS Feed
47 more...
Slideshow
