Looking southwest form the Gladie Visitor Center in he middle of the Red River Gorge you'll see Jewel Pinnacle. It is a distinct spire on the south side of the river. The route follows the crack that goes just right of the cat's nose and then between it's eyes to the summit.
At the base of the pinnacle you'll know the route when you find the steep dihedral that seems to go all the way to the top.
The ultimate crux of the route is the mid section of the thankfully short first pitch. If it were cleaner the first pitch would be much cooler.
The intermediate belay is on a comfy ledge, but you can build a nice gear anchor in a horizontal and "hang" on it.
You'll need a #4 or #4.5 camalot for the start of the second pitch but other than that the gear is mostly mid sizes. Just bring plenty of duplicates.
You can rap from the goofy anchors of scramble down to the southwest and then rap from the vegetated ledge off to the east. Beware of copperheads near the rap.
|By James Beissel|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2006
You can run P1&2 together without much drag if you are comfortable running it out a little and using long runners.
|By Mark Cushman|
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 4, 2007
It's also possible to walk-off this route by scrambling down towards the Copperhead route from the top - no need to rappel.
|By Matt Thorum|
From: Urbana, IL
Jun 14, 2009
There is now a well extended and equalized webbing rappel anchor at the top of the route so you can easily rappel back down to the base with a 60m rope and pull the rope with no trouble. Thanks to whomever set this up.
|By Doug Hemken|
Nov 4, 2009
In the late 70s we used to hike out to this spot from Chimney Top road. It was considered a real test of your "Gorge sense" to be able to thread your way across the ridges to find it!
|By Casey the "Renaissance Man"|
Jul 11, 2012
Great line, best 5.6 in the Red. The bottom is a little dirty sometimes. New anchors now with extended chains so you can rap off without getting your rope stuck. Also you can put a .75 cam in the back of the wide part at the start of the 2nd pitch.
|By Kevin Wagner|
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 30, 2013
Careful! There is a wasp nest in the summit register container.
|By David Tennant|
From: Toledo, OH
Aug 5, 2013
The added anchors were perfect to repel the entire route with just one 60m rope. Ran into the guys that bolted it which was also pretty cool. There's a registry on top too. Need at minimum a #4 or I used #5 bd c4 size for the start of second pitch or else it's super sketchy because it took a good 20ft above the belay ledge to place anything smaller. Although higher there were some nice nut placements.
|By Doug Hemken|
Aug 6, 2013
Gotta say, I'm sad to hear that convenience anchors have shown up in such an out-of-the-way place.