Diamond Head Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The South face and Southwest arete of Diamond head...
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Diamond Head is another rare "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. There is a string of summits extending from Rincon to the north/north west, including Cadillac Crag, The Veil, Physical Crag (and Split Block), Diamond Head, and Sobo. Diamond Head and Sobo are the farthest points West of this chain, and are near enough together (500 yards) to visit in a single day. Due to the long walk in neither formation sees much traffic, and both have new route potential. The Rossiter guide listed only 2 routes at Diamond Head, although there are now more than 10, with potential for additional routes, particularly if someone want to do a few hair-raisers. Top-roping a few face routes at Diamond head is an option after leading one of the two easier climbs there, or after a long but easy scramble/walk to the top. 2 of the 10+ known climbs are easy-to-moderate crack pitches with good gear. 2 more are moderate X-rated face climbs, and there are some more well-to-not-so-well protected harder routes. All of these routes would be popular if they had less of an approach. With the recent development of Sobo and Diamond head, the total quantity of good routes at a moderate grade justifies the long walk in for a 5.10 climber. Like The Veil, Diamond Head has a large slab with excellent rock. Unlike The Veil, it's exposure and southern aspect offers some stellar climbing in the cold. The west face is more shaded and may be better for warmer days. Much like the other crags in this summit chain, Diamond Head does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. The setting is a nice, and along with Sobo, it may be the best place to go if you fear crowds in Eldo.
From the Eldorado Trail, Diamond Head becomes visible once the Rincon Cut-off is passed. The crag is the tallest, and second largest of all of those in the summit chain. The crag is most easily identified by the dark, perfect south-facing slab on the upper half, rising from east to west, and split by to fabulous easy cracks, Let It Rock (5.6*) and Let It Roll (5.7). The awesome face between is Let It Slide, and the left-hand arete is She Blew Me (a pun on the original route, Shibumi). Each of these climbs are very high quality. A small summit just East of the main summit, a tower of rock, also holds the line Diamond In The Rough.
There is potential for perhaps another 10 lines to be developed at Diamond Head, and perhaps more if someone can obtain permission to add bolts.
Descent: To descend after climbing, scramble and walk off of the top to the backside in either direction, or rap from above Shibumi. The cliff base is gained by hiking down either side. This is an easy descent and should take about 15 minutes. Some down-climbing could be eliminated with the addition of slings on trees or the installation of other fixed anchors.
From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you pass a bus-sized boulder on the right side of the trail, and then about 40 feet later, a sharp left-bend in the trail. Some half-way between the boulder and the bend, a trail begins up the hill. This is almost, but not quite directly below Diamond Head, it is slightly east, still. Follow the trail up the hill and to the east side of a ridge of rock, then Sramble uphil over talus to reach a point just east of the base of Diamond head. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) up and down from Diamond head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.
Climbing Season For the Eldorado Canyon SP area.
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Diamond Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Diamond Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Diamond Head:
Shibumi 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Diamond Head
Shibumi 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: Diamond Head
This climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head.P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Diamond Head as viewed from the north.
BETA PHOTO: Diamond Head as viewed from the west.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 26, 2007
If Diamondhead and Sobo are in the open spaces do any of the birdie closures apply to them?
By Kirk Petersen
Jan 31, 2009
Diamond Head is now subject to the birdie closure for Shadow Canyon, lasting from February 1st through July 31st. According to a January 2009 city press release: "This year's closure includes climbing areas west of the Shadow Canyon closure for the first time. 'We are very excited about the new family of golden eagles in the Diamond Head area,' said Jerry Katopodes, OSMP ranger."
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2009
At least it is true....
They successfully hatched a chick there last year, on a first year nest. Hopefully the land managers will be reasonable with the closure and lift it once they are off the nest.