Diamond Head is another rare "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. There is a string of summits extending from Rincon to the north/north west, including Cadillac Crag, The Veil, Physical Crag (and Split Block), Diamond Head, and Sobo. Diamond Head and Sobo are the farthest points West of this chain, and are near enough together (500 yards) to visit in a single day. Due to the long walk in neither formation sees much traffic, and both have new route potential. The Rossiter guide listed only 2 routes at Diamond Head, although there are now more than 10, with potential for additional routes, particularly if someone want to do a few hair-raisers. Top-roping a few face routes at Diamond head is an option after leading one of the two easier climbs there, or after a long but easy scramble/walk to the top. 2 of the 10+ known climbs are easy-to-moderate crack pitches with good gear. 2 more are moderate X-rated face climbs, and there are some more well-to-not-so-well protected harder routes. All of these routes would be popular if they had less of an approach. With the recent development of Sobo and Diamond head, the total quantity of good routes at a moderate grade justifies the long walk in for a 5.10 climber. Like The Veil, Diamond Head has a large slab with excellent rock. Unlike The Veil, it's exposure and southern aspect offers some stellar climbing in the cold. The west face is more shaded and may be better for warmer days. Much like the other crags in this summit chain, Diamond Head does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. The setting is a nice, and along with Sobo, it may be the best place to go if you fear crowds in Eldo.
From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you pass a bus-sized boulder on the right side of the trail, and then about 40 feet later, a sharp left-bend in the trail. Some half-way between the boulder and the bend, a trail begins up the hill. This is almost, but not quite directly below Diamond Head, it is slightly east, still. Follow the trail up the hill and to the east side of a ridge of rock, then Sramble uphil over talus to reach a point just east of the base of Diamond head. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) up and down from Diamond head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.
Browse More Classics in Diamond Head
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Diamond Head:
She Blew Me 5.9+ X Trad, TR
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs 5.10a Trad
Cameron's Corner 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch
Shibumi 5.12b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For Diamond Head
Shibumi 5.12b CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head
This climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head.P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and...[more] Browse More Classics in CO