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East Wall (Diamond Dogs Area)
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Barking Spiders S 
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Diamond Dogs T 
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Lenore Goldberg T 
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No-Doz T 
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Uncertainty Principle T 
Zardoz T 

Diamond Dogs 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Wilson & Gib Lewis, November 1974
Page Views: 3,775
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002

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making the slab traverse a bit harder

Description 

Undercling/lieback the flake to a stance on the horn, load up some gear (pro to 2.5" works well) and then move up and left across the face to the first bolt (spicy if one considers the fragility of the flake). Continue up the slightly runout face passing one more bolt enroute to the anchors.

Overall the pro is good but spaced and a good outing for a competent leader. Three stars out of five.


Location 

Around and right from Lickety Splits on the left side of the west face.


Protection 

Gear to 2.5", 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")



Photos of Diamond Dogs Slideshow Add Photo
Diamond Dogs in Fabiano's, ca. 1985... <br /> <br />Julie Lazar took this photo.
Diamond Dogs in Fabiano's, ca. 1985...

Julie Laza...
Eric Odenthal on 1-22-11
Eric Odenthal on 1-22-11
John Bald 1973
John Bald 1973
Christa Cline at the welcome rest after the strenuous undercling layback.
Christa Cline at the welcome rest after the strenu...
Diamond Dogs
BETA PHOTO: Diamond Dogs
Christa Cline laybacking the top of the flake before stepping left onto the face.
Christa Cline laybacking the top of the flake befo...
Andrea at the beginning
Andrea at the beginning
Tony Yeary on the sharp end.
Tony Yeary on the sharp end.
Tough, tough, moves for a shortie..
Tough, tough, moves for a shortie..
Mark on Diamond Dogs (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
Mark on Diamond Dogs (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
Cali getting ready to make the crux move
Cali getting ready to make the crux move
Scott "Zippy" Reynolds looking forward to a  ding dong with taco sauce on top.
Scott "Zippy" Reynolds looking forward to a ding ...
Diamond Dog full length - climber (Charlie Lieu) 1/2 up the route
BETA PHOTO: Diamond Dog full length - climber (Charlie Lieu) 1...
Scott Nomi launches across...
Scott Nomi launches across...
Christa Cline powering the undercling.
Christa Cline powering the undercling.
Tom Patterson on Diamond Dogs.
Tom Patterson on Diamond Dogs.
Scott Nomi high steps to a welcome rest.
Scott Nomi high steps to a welcome rest.
Comments on Diamond Dogs Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 26, 2002

Serious, yes. However, the climbing eases up substantially after exiting the flake, so the runout section isn't 10a.

By Woody Stark
Oct 30, 2003

The irony relative to this route is if you can do the "5.7" undercling and layback at the bottom, the 5.10a further up is a snap.

By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 12, 2004

A sling can be girth-hitched around a knob just after the first bolt if desired to protect moves to the second bolt.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 28, 2004

Good route.

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did it on a toprope and found it to be fun, not impossible for a 10a (I've done harder 5.7's in J-Tree).The flake is quite strenuous but positive all the way. The upper 10a face is devious but not difficult. I wouldn't lead it unless you're proficient at leading 10's as the fall factor could render broken bones.

By namascar
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I can believe that people are not stoke with this one. It is so much fun, and a very interesting feature. The undercling it classic, the transition to the slab excellent, and the run outs are so much Joshua Treeish. Great fun route.

By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005

Moving onto the slab from the crack was definitely the crux in my book. I was a little scared there but the route is a beaut!

By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent route, though I can agree with the "serious" (but not quite R-rated) rating. Place a #1 camalot behind the flake from the horn. A #2 or #3 will fit slightly higher in the flake, but behind a crappier portion of the flake. Look slightly lower than that pod and in to the left and there's a more solid #1 camalot slot. I made one more move to the second horn and blindly placed a second cam just for insurance. The crux for me also was the transition to the slab. Fun and slightly runout slab climbling above.

By Chris Weber
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2006

I think you could argue that the power lieback is just about as hard as the upper slab moves...once you figure out the sequence (from a good stance), it's not too bad, and the lieback is tough with crappy feet and no pro (it's too low to bother)...

Beta: a .75 works great high in the flake.

By Pat W
Jan 27, 2007

Initial section is the definite crux. If you you're nervous on the undercling (expando pro sucks), have a spotter and crash pad. From there, medium/thin cams and nuts in the flake, as well as a cool head up top will get you through. The physical difficulty comes early. Nice, varied, fun route.

By ChugachMan
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is a serious route, but there is plenty of gear to keep this route from having an "R" rating. Place a piece high in the flake before traversing, and after clipping the first bolt go ahead and sling a knob to keep from falling back on the ledge while moving to the second bolt (as Chris Miller recommends). Lovely route though, and a great lead! Quite the classic mix of powerful lie back and more delicate slab moves!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After clipping the first bolt, while its not buckets, you're essentially home free.

By Zittydog
May 2, 2007

Love this route. R ain't right, if you can drag your butt through the bottom section you'll be fine for the rest.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 29, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great tip to girth hitch the knob Chris! Did this route yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. A couple of my shorter mates had to be very inventive at the crux moves left - so, it's harder for shorties. What a great route!

There's no way the undercling is 5.7!

How many times have I yarded and cranked up that flake to the traverse into the bowl and had to pause to take a deep breath and get my metabolism to slow down so I can pull thin moves off!

By TYeary
Administrator
From: Arcadia, Califoria
Feb 11, 2008

Just did this route again for the first time in 10 or 15 years. What a great line. I forgot how much fun it is! I'd give 4 out 5 stars. 5.9-10a. Not "R" though.

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Feb 12, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

followed Tony Yeary up this route(thanks Tony).
start is intimidating, but not hard.
crux for me is the leftward traverse move off the flake,
did not think it's 10a, 5.9+

By Joe Huggins
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Jun 11, 2008

In January of '86 I was on the way to JT when I rolled my bus outside Glenwood, CO; landed upright in a field. When I got to the tree, I pedaled to the Hall of Horrors, where I onsight soloed Diamond Dogs; obviously I couldn't be killed. Years later, on a trip with my wife, I led it, recalling my earlier ascent and thinking, "you stupid SOB"...

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 20, 2008

I cannot understand in any way how you could give this an 'R' rating.

By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This climb is awesome and exciting; was our last climb before driving back to San Francisco and kept me grinning for a few hours. I found a 4" cam useful to protect the undercling moves, but a #3 works too (just further left). Easier to place & slide it up when you're tall, before you even start... crux is definitely moving left after the flake ends, and is safe (piece by your knees). Moves after the first bolt feel R, but probably 5.8 or 5.9 at most, and it eases after that. So memorable!

By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Apr 23, 2013

such a cool feature that begs to be climbed... no need to place till you're safe up on easy parts of the flake - would pump you out trying anyhow (I know...). Nice one I'd be happy to repeat.