Diamond Dogs 

Serious, yes. However, the climbing eases up substantially after exiting the flake, so the runout section isn't 10a.

The irony relative to this route is if you can do the "5.7" undercling and layback at the bottom, the 5.10a further up is a snap.

A sling can be girth-hitched around a knob just after the first bolt if desired to protect moves to the second bolt.

Good route.

I did it on a toprope and found it to be fun, not impossible for a 10a (I've done harder 5.7's in J-Tree).The flake is quite strenuous but positive all the way. The upper 10a face is devious but not difficult. I wouldn't lead it unless you're proficient at leading 10's as the fall factor could render broken bones.

I can believe that people are not stoke with this one. It is so much fun, and a very interesting feature. The undercling it classic, the transition to the slab excellent, and the run outs are so much Joshua Treeish. Great fun route.

Moving onto the slab from the crack was definitely the crux in my book. I was a little scared there but the route is a beaut!

Excellent route, though I can agree with the "serious" (but not quite R-rated) rating. Place a #1 camalot behind the flake from the horn. A #2 or #3 will fit slightly higher in the flake, but behind a crappier portion of the flake. Look slightly lower than that pod and in to the left and there's a more solid #1 camalot slot. I made one more move to the second horn and blindly placed a second cam just for insurance. The crux for me also was the transition to the slab. Fun and slightly runout slab climbling above.

I think you could argue that the power lieback is just about as hard as the upper slab moves...once you figure out the sequence (from a good stance), it's not too bad, and the lieback is tough with crappy feet and no pro (it's too low to bother)...

Beta: a .75 works great high in the flake.

Initial section is the definite crux. If you you're nervous on the undercling (expando pro sucks), have a spotter and crash pad. From there, medium/thin cams and nuts in the flake, as well as a cool head up top will get you through. The physical difficulty comes early. Nice, varied, fun route.

It is a serious route, but there is plenty of gear to keep this route from having an "R" rating. Place a piece high in the flake before traversing, and after clipping the first bolt go ahead and sling a knob to keep from falling back on the ledge while moving to the second bolt (as Chris Miller recommends). Lovely route though, and a great lead! Quite the classic mix of powerful lie back and more delicate slab moves!

After clipping the first bolt, while its not buckets, you're essentially home free.

Love this route. R ain't right, if you can drag your butt through the bottom section you'll be fine for the rest.

Great tip to girth hitch the knob Chris! Did this route yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. A couple of my shorter mates had to be very inventive at the crux moves left - so, it's harder for shorties. What a great route!

There's no way the undercling is 5.7!

How many times have I yarded and cranked up that flake to the traverse into the bowl and had to pause to take a deep breath and get my metabolism to slow down so I can pull thin moves off!

Just did this route again for the first time in 10 or 15 years. What a great line. I forgot how much fun it is! I'd give 4 out 5 stars. 5.9-10a. Not "R" though.

followed Tony Yeary up this route(thanks Tony).
start is intimidating, but not hard.
crux for me is the leftward traverse move off the flake,
did not think it's 10a, 5.9+

In January of '86 I was on the way to JT when I rolled my bus outside Glenwood, CO; landed upright in a field. When I got to the tree, I pedaled to the Hall of Horrors, where I onsight soloed Diamond Dogs; obviously I couldn't be killed. Years later, on a trip with my wife, I led it, recalling my earlier ascent and thinking, "you stupid SOB"...

I cannot understand in any way how you could give this an 'R' rating.

This climb is awesome and exciting; was our last climb before driving back to San Francisco and kept me grinning for a few hours. I found a 4" cam useful to protect the undercling moves, but a #3 works too (just further left). Easier to place & slide it up when you're tall, before you even start... crux is definitely moving left after the flake ends, and is safe (piece by your knees). Moves after the first bolt feel R, but probably 5.8 or 5.9 at most, and it eases after that. So memorable!

such a cool feature that begs to be climbed... no need to place till you're safe up on easy parts of the flake - would pump you out trying anyhow (I know...). Nice one I'd be happy to repeat.