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 ADVANCED
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Diamond Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Steep Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 1420', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Ted Eliason on Jun 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Reaching the rock step in the early am.

Description 

This is a line comparable to Dragon's Tail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is super-accessible with a good length from the parking lot of Summit Lake.

Gary Roach describes the Diamond Couloir as "(a) mixed tour (that) provides a sensuous snow slope capped by a rock challenge." The mixed is 4th class and does not require roping up or placing gear.

Climb the steepening snow until it ends below the cliffs. Roach says, "stay East (left) of some steep rock and climb 2 Class 4 pitches to reach Evans' West Ridge just East of Point 14,246." There is some tat hanging from climbers that went right.

This route can be skied from the rim with an inelegant line around the left rock step, which is a Class 4 mixed move. The better line starts at the top of the final rock step.

Location 

Climb southwest from the East end of Summit Lake to the Summit Lake bowl. The Diamond is a true couloir, surrounded by rock walls on each side, splitting the North Face to the right of the North Face snowfield and left of the first Apron.

Protection 

Cramons and ice axes. Use a rope if you feel more comfortable roping up on Class 4.


Photos of Diamond Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Sludging up the lower couloir.
Sludging up the lower couloir.

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