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Reaching the rock step in the early am.
This is a line comparable to Dragon's Tail Couloir
in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is super-accessible with a good length from the parking lot of Summit Lake.
Gary Roach describes the Diamond Couloir as "(a) mixed tour (that) provides a sensuous snow slope capped by a rock challenge." The mixed is 4th class and does not require roping up or placing gear.
Climb the steepening snow until it ends below the cliffs. Roach says, "stay East (left) of some steep rock and climb 2 Class 4 pitches to reach Evans' West Ridge just East of Point 14,246." There is some tat hanging from climbers that went right.
This route can be skied from the rim with an inelegant line around the left rock step, which is a Class 4 mixed move. The better line starts at the top of the final rock step.
Climb southwest from the East end of Summit Lake to the Summit Lake bowl. The Diamond is a true couloir, surrounded by rock walls on each side, splitting the North Face to the right of the North Face snowfield and left of the first Apron.
Cramons and ice axes. Use a rope if you feel more comfortable roping up on Class 4.
Sludging up the lower couloir.