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Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Dialing For Dollars 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces West, closed Feb-Ju
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 10, 2006

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A good route, overall, with pretty good gear.

    P1, 120' 5.9: Start off the ground in some awkward jams in a left-facing corner over-head to pull up onto a lower angle stance on the eh face above and slightly left. Climb up lower angle rock to reach the bottom of the beautiful flake and obtuse corner. Start with .5" gear (cams are best) and work your way up the flake and up the rack until you reach the top of it, perhaps 60 feet later, and with a 3" cam. Climb up and left into diagonal cracks and a good shelf and belay off of gear.

    P2, 70', 5.9: Climb left and over on diagonal cracks up to below a dark red spot and a band of horizontals in the wall, a good 5-7 meters left of the overhanging, junky corner above the belay. Climb up features and cracks past a huge old bong piton (back it up with a nut) and up to some more nut placements above it. The way it is driven it would probably break at the eyelets where it is clipped if you fell on it alone. Top out on the ridge above and belay from gear again.

    To descend, scramble East, then hike 50-100 meters north, then West through a notch and back down south to the base.

    Location 

    Up hill quite some distance from the creek, not less than 200 meters. you will encounter a open book corner with a right-facing flake, starting 10 meters off of the ground. The wall to the left of this is a beautiful yellow/green and the crack which starts at fingers goes to hands before reaching a ledge at the base of a left-facing, left-leaning corner, 120' up.

    Protection 

    A standard rack to 3.5" with some long slings.


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