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 ADVANCED
Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apartheid S 
Baby Apes T 
Buffalo Soldier T 
Dial Africa T 
Dimp for a Chimp T 
Moonbeam Crack T 

Dial Africa 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: (TR): John Bachar, March 1980. (Lead): Scott Cosgrove
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008

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Description 

This climb is great and different in style than Baby Apes. The start is a bit vexing: the moves off the Apartheid ramp are difficult, as is clipping the first bolt. I placed and subsequently back-cleaned a cam in/from the ramp; pre-clipping the bolt makes a fall from the ramp disastrous, although the climbing is relatively easy. Pick your poison. The initial difficulties continue pretty much to the end. Another stellar route on a wall full of classics!

Location 

Climb the ramp that begins Apartheid, but climb left around the corner instead of straight up. Bolted anchor but no fixed rappel setup; walk-off the south side of the formation.

Protection 

3 bolts plus a piece of gear for the Apartheid ramp. Bolted Anchor.


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By Randy
Dec 20, 2008

Not one of the best routes on the wall, particularly since the bolt placements are poorly located (2nd bolt in particular).