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This climb is great and different in style than Baby Apes. The start is a bit vexing: the moves off the Apartheid ramp are difficult, as is clipping the first bolt. I placed and subsequently back-cleaned a cam in/from the ramp; pre-clipping the bolt makes a fall from the ramp disastrous, although the climbing is relatively easy. Pick your poison. The initial difficulties continue pretty much to the end. Another stellar route on a wall full of classics!
Climb the ramp that begins Apartheid, but climb left around the corner instead of straight up. Bolted anchor but no fixed rappel setup; walk-off the south side of the formation.
3 bolts plus a piece of gear for the Apartheid ramp. Bolted Anchor.
Dec 20, 2008
Not one of the best routes on the wall, particularly since the bolt placements are poorly located (2nd bolt in particular).