Dial Africa  5.12b/c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  (TR): John Bachar, March 1980. (Lead): Scott Cosgrove Submitted By:  Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb is great and different in style than Baby Apes. The start is a bit vexing: the moves off the Apartheid ramp are difficult, as is clipping the first bolt. I placed and subsequently back-cleaned a cam in/from the ramp; pre-clipping the bolt makes a fall from the ramp disastrous, although the climbing is relatively easy. Pick your poison. The initial difficulties continue pretty much to the end. Another stellar route on a wall full of classics!

Location 

Climb the ramp that begins Apartheid, but climb left around the corner instead of straight up. Bolted anchor but no fixed rappel setup; walk-off the south side of the formation.

Protection 

3 bolts plus a piece of gear for the Apartheid ramp. Bolted Anchor.