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Climb a somewhat chanenging bouldery start to gain the crack then with hands in the crack and feet mostly on the face make your way up and to the left... Eventually making a mantel move on to the top...
The gear can be a little tricky but its all there once you get past the starting moves...
I think this route is better to lead than TR due to its traversing nature...
A bit left of The Horn(5.9) look for a left leaning crack starting behind a small boulder...
Regular rack, maybe some tri-cams would be nice...
Nicole following me on Diagonal...
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The direct start in the crack goes at 5.10. Starting 6' left on the slab is the 5.7 start, although as a lead it's unprotected until you reach the crack.
May 20, 2012
The flake above the slab start is not long for this world. I pulled two cams out of it in a fall. It expanded and the right side cracked. Don't trust it.
Jun 6, 2013
I'm pretty sure I felt that flake move on me. The crack is fun but the top out is a bit of a reach if you're only 5'7" like me. Cool spot.
|By Russ Keane|
Oct 20, 2013
OMG love this climb!!!! What a spicey, dicey, sustained lead!! The bottom is outstanding. It's a balancey, highish boulder problem, with some crazy moves to get over and get your first piece in. Strap on your jock straps boys and girls! Then the climb forces you to keep moving and just plug-and-go, do not stop, try and get to the top.... but Man oh man the top out is dirty and not so obvious. I actually fell on my last piece and lowered down to this little side ledge, and walked around and built the anchor. Tough!
Just like the other climbs up here, add a grade. This thing climbs like an 8.