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Horseshoe Canyon
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Vacavillain S 

Diagon Alley 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,791
Submitted By: Rough on Oct 13, 2012

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Rough on the FA of Diagon Alley.
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Description 

Start up a small scoop then break right to the left trending arete. Reach the ledge and pass the last bolt and the overhanging dihedral guarding the anchors.


Location 

Far right route, just as your enter Horseshoe Canyon.


Protection 

4 bolts and anchors.



Photos of Diagon Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Aaron points at a new route he sets up called Diagon Alley
Aaron points at a new route he sets up called Diag...
Aaron Rough bolting new route enittled "Diagon Alley"
Aaron Rough bolting new route enittled "Diagon All...
Here is route setter and bolter extraordinaire Aaron taking a break to pose in front of his route entitled Diagon Alley
Here is route setter and bolter extraordinaire Aar...
Michael Dorame leads a first ascent on Diagon Alley, a 5.6 lead route in Horshoe Canyon area at Auburn Quarry
Michael Dorame leads a first ascent on Diagon Alle...
Comments on Diagon Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Dorame
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 15, 2012

Being the 2nd person ever to ascend this route (After route setter Aaron of course) can I just say how classic the feel was. It was a nice easygoing sport route that required me to boulder quietly through the starting move and then after first clip it was a nice right leg up with a swing right on a comfy plateau-like surface. A little dusty after being set up anew wasnt enough to keep me from clipping teh next 3 routes. very straightforward, good feeling limestone, solid hardware, safe embedded bolts. I felt like I was king of the world at the top. Thanks Aaron for the belay. Great name.is this a Harry Potter reference?

look forward to more 2nd ascents :)

Cheers
Michael Dorame
www.meetup.com/Get-Your-Climb-On/

By Mathew G
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Unless I was off route, 40 feet for this climb is generous, maybe 30 feet at most? Fun climb, but it's over very quickly.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Apr 19, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun warm-up, there is a good crimpy TR straight up the face left of this route.

By Grumpy Gym Climber
May 10, 2014

The right-side anchor is quite loose (the bolt wiggles back and forth), and it appears that the bolt may never have set deep enough to fully engage the expansion anchor. Be wary of trusting this anchor.