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This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.
Take the large end of a standard rack, including hexes and cams. Medium sizes pieces could assist with the building of the belay up top.
BETA PHOTO: Diabetics, 5.4
|By Steve Powell|
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 26, 2007
not bad, a little runout at top