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Dana's Arch Area
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DGS  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Gunstone & Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Oct 2, 2011

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Looking down from the belay at the top of DGS pitc...

Description 

With the possible exception of "The back road", this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall.

P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.
(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )

P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.

P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.

P3-P4 (better variation): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.

For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.


Location 

To reach the base, go further left along the wall from the start to Back road and Jungle fun. Just after pulling up the hand line, trend right to a tree. Start with a rightward traverse to the corner-crack.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to wide-fist size. For the second pitch, it may help to have doubles in the hand size, or at least doubles of large nuts.


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By Jacob Smith
From: Mill Creek, WA
May 4, 2014

Two ropes are needed to rap the route (one 70m was about 20 ft short), with one you have to use an intermediate anchor on a tree to the left of the second pitch, which could probably be backed up/replaced.
Also, I'm not sure what's going on with the "two thin face cracks," we found one that was too thin to use and one that was neither thin nor a face crack that went directly into the corner.
Also, despite a moderate grade and good rock, this route is quite dirty, expect a bit of a grovel and bring lots of long slings.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Surprising good even with the dirty first pitch. I may need to clean a direct start to this.