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Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adirondack Rehabilitation T 
Amnesia Chasm T 
Amphitheatre Crack T 
Birthday Corner T 
Black Arch ArÍte T 
Broken Broom T 
Carpenter & Das T 
Cranium T 
Critical Crimps T,S 
Crossway T 
Dexter's Dugout T 
Drive T 
E-stim T 
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 
Four Ounces to Freedom S 
Full Recovery T 
Gun Show T 
Hang Time T 
Here I Go Again T 
Impulse Drive T 
Intensive Care T 
Lane Change T 
Outpatient T 
Parallel Passage T 
Pinch an Inch T 
Plumb Line T 
Post Op T 
Recuperation Boulevard T 
Reducto Adductor T 
Renegade T 
Scaredy Cat T 
Second Job T 
Side Show T 
Sleepy Hollow T 
Suicidal Sydney T 
Tilly's Trench T 
Torcher T 
Tribulations T 

Dexter's Dugout 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: August 2011: Tom Lane, Jay Harrison
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Nov
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2011

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Description 

Climb the corner, using the offwidth crack and a left-rising rail to the right, to a good ledge with a parallelogram-shaped block leaning on it. Traverse left around the outside corner, to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this for a few moves until you can reach left to join Pinch an Inch.
One could, alternatively, join Impulse Drive, or perhaps attempt to follow the corner all the way up to its end. The latter option was rejected on the original ascent, because it runs into a large and messy raven's nest.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.

Location 

In the Amphitheatre, this is the first right-facing corner with an offwidth crack right of Amphitheatre Crack and Pinch an Inch. It lies about 40' left of the right end of the Amphitheatre.
Use the 2-bolt anchor for descent.

Protection 

Set of nuts, tricams, and cams, including one 4 or 5" cam.
There is a bolt on the top section of Pinch an Inch (which this rt. joins), and a 2-bolt anchor at 65'.


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