Dewey  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  J. Stuberg, C. Coy, 1981. Season:  Faces East Submitted By:  Tony B on Jun 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is almost a bomb, but not quite. It is not worth doing, but not worthy of a completely scathing review either.

Head up on good secure holds into the bulge, which is larger and harder than it appears. Use some trickery to get through the top of the bulge, passing the lip on less than secure holds in awkward body positions. There is broken and slick rock and a bush to contend with at precisely that location. The climbing gets easier after pulling the bulge. Go left-side in.

This was the only route at the crag that I was unhappy soloing. If you are going to do it, consider leading it with a rope for your safety.

Location 

This is the slightly chunky looking overhang on the left side of the East Face of Cartoon Crag. A wide crack through a bulge is the defining feature and the crux climbing.

Protection 

A standard light rack to 4".