Devotion 5.11d R
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| Type: | Sport, 15 pitches, 2000 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Alex Catlin, Nathalie Challulau, Magic Ed Wright, & Jimmy Carse - 2004 |
| Submitted By: | Robert MacKinnon on Jun 2, 2008 |
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Description P1: 5.8 P2: 5.10 P3: 5.11d P4: 5.10 P5: 5.11 P6: 5.9 P7: 3rd class P8: 5.10 P9: 5.11b P10: 5.11c P11: 5.9 P12: 5.10d P13: 5.10c P14: 5.11d P15: 5.10b Description from Ed and Tami Wright's guidebook: "The dihedral that forms the left side of the Pride Buttress and then the huge face to the summit palms. Start 15’ right of the cave. Crosses Pride 130’ up at the second belay. Pitch three climbs the huge corner. Four to six continue up the left side of the Cebolla [‘Onion’] buttress. Cross the ledge to a clean grey buttress with pitches eight to eleven. At the top of eleven you will find the Universal Siesta Cave, which is shady in the PM when the rest of the wall is cooking. Thirteen traverses hard left. Fourteen passes the upper roofs. Rappel the route EXCEPT from the 13th belay do two raps straight down to the cave (avoiding the traverse) and from the top of the third do two raps straight down using one of the Pride Enclave anchors. You need two ropes (or one 80m) and 15 draws. Very good bivies at the top of pitch 7 (up and left of the route) and 11."
Location Furthest right route.
Protection Bolts.
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