Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||39.9543, -105.2926 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 7, 2007|
Shadow Canyon from the Mesa Trail at midmorning. T...
The Devil's Wings are listed in 2 sections due to the nature of the crags. Being up at the summit of the Front Range foothills, this large set of Flatirons sets up a summit ridge of Bear Peak, having the namesake sweeping slabs facing Boulder to the east, and to the West, a steep if not overhanging or roofed out wall containing Shadow Canyon and looking westward to yellow aspens and snowy mountains, over the distant walls of Eldorado Canyon, The Veil and Sobo.
The cliff generally comes into sun in late morning in the autumn, when it is open and accessible. There are cracks and corners facing different directions, so light depends on the climb in question.
The rock has a few rotten bands, a few riddled with vertical cracks, and some massive roofs. Unfortunately the roofs more often than not guard access to excellent looking splitters and corners. Only a few have been accessed. The vast majority of the 'potential' can not be easily reached. Were it not for the bolting ban on the area, some very long and truly beautiful face climbing might be opened here.
A few routes are listed, and several others have been established via free solo (Jason Haas, 2007) but are not listed as of now.
This cliff is not to be mistaken for Sunset Wall, a large crag lower on the same hill, facing West into Shadow Canyon.
Access is for Sunset Wall, but slightly further south, either approaching as for Sunset, but keeping South and going around the end to that and to the West Face of the Wing, or approaching as for the Devil's Horns and continuing Northward along the cliff base to reach the towering bulges of this wall.
Climbing Season For the South area.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face
Wings Of Steel 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CO
: ... : Angel's Wings aka Devil's W...
A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
A birds-eye view of the Devil's Wings as seen from...
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