Few peaks in North America inspire as much reverance as the Devil's Thumb. As the uncanny name suggests this a place of turmoil, frustration, and tragedy. Despite boasting only a miserly 9,000 feet of altitude, the relatively low 3000-foot base elevation provides sweeping walls of ice and granite diorite.
The Thumb can be approached via helicopter as described under the Stikine Ice Cap section, or via boat & foot. For routes on the North & Southwest sides, approach via the Baird Glacier and Witch's Cauldron. For the Southeast side of the peak, approach from the Ice Cap.
Browse More Classics in Devil's Thumb
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Thumb:
East Ridge (via Southeast face) 5.8+ Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V
Direct East Ridge 5.8+ Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V
Plumb-Stuzman (Northeast Rib of the North Face) 5.10- Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 55 pitches, 6000 feet, Grade VI
Featured Route For Devil's Thumb
East Ridge (via Southeast face) 5.8+ Steep Snow AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Devil's Thumb
The first ascent of the Thumb was made via the East Ridge. The climb was an epic adventure, involving two of the most accomplished American alpinists of the era, Fred Beckey & Fritz Wiessner. Weissner was the first climber to explore the Stikine region, on an expedition with Bestor Robinson in 1937. The party attempted Kate's Needle, the highest summit in the region at 10,002', but were defeated by poor weather.Upon the conclusion of the Second World War, Wiessner was anxious to return to the...[more] Browse More Classics in AK