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Devil's Lake partner for trad beginner
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By Gung-ho Gumby
Aug 4, 2011
Hello,
I realize it may be a bit early to post this, but I will be driving by Devil's Lake in mid September on a solo road trip and I'm hoping to find someone who will be my partner for some moderate trad climbing for two days or so. My schedule is flexible, but I plan to pass through during the second week of September. I, admittedly, have little trad experience. I'm a proficient sport climber, I'll have been climbing mostly sport by the time I get to WI, but want to change it up with some mellow trad days during my trip eastward.

Please send a PM if you are interested in meeting up, thanks!

FLAG
By haydefree
Aug 10, 2011
I live in branson and I m looking for climbing partners...shall we meet in september!!!

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 10, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Very important for all new DL climbers fixin' to do leads: It is VERY difficult rock, slick and hard, smooth. 1.) Plan on toproping several routes first to get a feel for the quartzite. 2.)It is generally accepted that you begin several grades below your sport level. Seriously. I mean you need to plan on leading the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there to start. Many accidents in recent years have been from gym or sport climbers coming there and starting off with a 5.9 they can't protect well and falling. I don't have plans to get there until the weekend of Sept.23rd. Best of luck.

FLAG
By jay durbin
Aug 10, 2011
me at the belay of bloody nose i believe
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Very important for all new DL climbers fixin' to do leads: It is VERY difficult rock, slick and hard, smooth. 1.) Plan on toproping several routes first to get a feel for the quartzite. 2.)It is generally accepted that you begin several grades below your sport level. Seriously. I mean you need to plan on leading the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there to start. Many accidents in recent years have been from gym or sport climbers coming there and starting off with a 5.9 they can't protect well and falling. I don't have plans to get there until the weekend of Sept.23rd. Best of luck.


Listen to him, the routes at the lake were put up years ago when 9's were the hardest grades out there. They are sandbagged and a .7 could be like a 10. I've been climbing at the lake for years now, possibly 10 or longer, and I can toprope 10's but I stick to the lower grades when I lead. I just led a .7 solo with my rescuscender, and it was really difficult. then aquired a belayer for another .7, birthday crack to be exact, and took a 20' whipper, almost decking out due to the slickness of the rock, the heat and sweat, and I thought I had a good grip to clip a cam high above me, well I didnt. good thing is, most of the rock is bomber, if you know what to look for in a placement. Hell, hit me up, im always looking for someone to climb with

FLAG
By Gung-ho Gumby
Aug 10, 2011
Ah, yes, I forgot to put in my post that I'M ONLY LOOKING TO FOLLOW. What I had in mind was to spend a mellow day or two on the lake, top-roping and following something really, really easy. I'd be totally happy to just follow some 5.5's. I want to take a break from clipping bolts on my trip and experience Devil's Lake, since I've never been and I here it's a top climbing area.

How hard would it be to find a partner if I just showed up and asked around?

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 10, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Weekends, not hard at all. Midweek this late in summer(as alot of college age climbers are headed back soon), not as easy. By 10:00AM if there are gonna be some climbers, they are usually headed up the CCC trail by then. That's the place to find a climber; also at base of Balanced Rock trail by the tracks. Enjoy!

FLAG


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