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Devil's Lake Offwidth??
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By Neil R
Mar 29, 2012

Are there any offwidths at Devil's Lake that you can recommend? I'll be there for 3 days of climbing in early April and would love to tackle some. Also any other route recommendations that you deem 'Must-Do' would be appreciated. Thanks!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Mar 29, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

The Vulva
Hot Beef Injection (not in the guidebook or on MP, to the left of Wild West Homo)
Via Apia
Whitney's Chimney (Fishing Crag)


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Mar 29, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Must Do routes at DL include the following: Thoroughfare, Alpha Centauri, Upper Diagonal, Flake Route, Catenary Crack, Jack The Ripper, Pine Tree Step Across, Watermarks Direct, Birch Tree Crack, Son of Great Chimney, Wild West Homo, Coup d'Etat, Lost Face Overhangs I & II, Dancing Madly Backwards, Gargantua and definitely not Curving Crack despite what all the fools on here will tell you.


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By Neil R
Mar 29, 2012

Great! Thanks Andy. I'll be sure to hit up as many of those as possible.


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Mar 29, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Impossible Crack up at Devil's Chair is OK offwith. Short but stout for the grade. The V at Vulture lookout is a great offwith lead. It will work ya.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Mar 29, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

while you're in the area (upper D) you might as well do birchtree crack, sometimes crack, and congratulations too. (I thought curving crack was good also LOL)


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By Kevin Brooks Henry
From Iowa City, IA
Mar 29, 2012
close up

Queens Throne isn't an OW, but I highly recommend it. It's really easy but an incredibly fun route.


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By Tradoholic
Mar 31, 2012

Andy Hansen wrote:
Must Do routes at DL include the following: Thoroughfare, Alpha Centauri, Upper Diagonal, Flake Route, Catenary Crack, Jack The Ripper, Pine Tree Step Across, Watermarks Direct, Birch Tree Crack, Son of Great Chimney, Wild West Homo, Coup d'Etat, Lost Face Overhangs I & II, Dancing Madly Backwards, Gargantua and definitely not Curving Crack despite what all the fools on here will tell you.


I mostly agree...but Catenary Crack is god awful, don't bother. Best route on that crag is Jack the Crooked Cop. Curving Crack is great, in fact most ALL of Old Sandstone is classic. OP doesn't mention how hard he climbs but the star ratings on MP for DL are pretty accurate so follow those.

As for off-width, there's no true OW anywhere, except maybe Whitney's Chimney which isn't even at DL. The top of Pidgieon Roof is also OW but a pretty short section.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Mar 31, 2012
perfect seam

sometimes and congrats are super duper


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Mar 31, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Also in the area of Upper D is Brinton's Crack, probably the most classic 5.6 in the park. I would also recommend dropping a few grades from what you're comfortable at if you've never climbed there.


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By highnoonhilltopper
Mar 31, 2012
j tree

I would say Whitney's is a SUPER FUN squeeze chimney not off-width. Stuck Knee, Dead Tree, Birch Tree, Impossible Crack, The Vulva, amazing short roof off width just around the corner(climbers right)from Lost Face. Just remember any offwidth at the lake will be short and most can be avoided by face climbing.





























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By Neil R
Apr 2, 2012

Hey thanks everyone for the ever increasing list! I'll try to get on as much as I can and report back my findings :) Cheers!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

And remember... no matter what anyone tells you... Curving Crack is not that good.


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By Tradoholic
Apr 2, 2012

highnoon is right, Whitney's is not off-width, chimney. Andy is full of shit, Curving Crack is classic. Andy, care to explain why you don't like it?


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Apr 10, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

I may be full of shit, true. But every time I get on Curving Crack it is so dirty, grungy and insecure. I think it's just a totally subjective view on the route and I guess I say it's awful based solely on my experiences on it. I would definitely recommend that everybody at least TRY the route to see for themselves. It is a well protected 5.8 at DL which can be difficult to find if you're breaking into the grade. I'd like to get on it late in the season when there have been many ascents of the route to clean it up. Also, I've lost a cam in it so I have pent up feelings of hatred towards the cam swallowing crack.


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By Ryan Strong
From Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2012
Ryan sending Straight No Chaser at sundown. Photo:Ben Scheele.

Hot Beef Injection.


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By Ryan Strong
From Golden, CO
Apr 19, 2012
Ryan sending Straight No Chaser at sundown. Photo:Ben Scheele.

"The Layback" at the Guillotine Area is probably the cleanest longest off width i have come across at the lake thus far.


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