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Devil's Lake Bouldering

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Burma Road Bouldering 
East Bluff Bouldering 
Sandstone Area 
Skillet Creek Bouldering 
South Bluff Bouldering 
Steinke Basin Bouldering 
West Bluff Bouldering 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Intermediate Loop
Fun singletrack cross-country style riding in Fitchburg, with optional downhill-style side trails. Near Verona, WI
Quarry Ridge - Cross Country Loop
Figure 8 loop for 2.6 miles of cross country riding. Near Fitchburg, WI
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Devil's Lake Bouldering 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.41549, -89.7164 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 612,082
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 11, 2009
Good Page?2 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
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Gettin on it, Remo in the summer heat.

Description 

This page contains all of the bouldering spots spread throughout the park. Split up now under different areas, mostly by which shore or bluff the bouldering follows.

Due to the ongoing explosion of bouldering at the Lake, please keep comments to informative ones under the problems if possible.


Click here for the Narc's West Bluff guide

Click here for an older slightly more comprehensive guide (This one looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost.)











Fuzzy on "Trust Fund Slab" on the West Bluff, photo: Remo

Fuzzy starting Trust Fund.
Fuzzy starting Trust Fund.


Nic Oklobzija on FA of "Death of a Traveling Salesman" V5 X, photo: Steve Schultz
Nic on 'Death of a Traveling Salesman'.  Note the pads waaaayy below.
Nic on 'Death of a Traveling Salesman'. Note the pads waaaayy below.


Katie on "Little Flatiron" V4 on the CCC trail, photo: Steve Schultz
She sent a couple goes later.
She sent a couple goes later.


Remo on "Sex and Chocolate" V7 @ Monolith, photo: ?
Hiking my foot for the throw.
Hiking my foot for the throw.


Steve Schultz on FA "Moj" V8 on West Bluff, photo: Runnells
Steve sending
Steve sending


Getting There 

See the directions under each specific area.


656 Total Routes


['4 Stars',51],['3 Stars',254],['2 Stars',269],['1 Star',66],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',89],['V2-3',262],['V4-5',125],['V6-7',70],['V8-9',76],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',30],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Lake Bouldering:
Trust Fund Slab   V-easy 3     Boulder, 10'   West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
Super Slab   V0 4     Boulder   West Bluff Central : Super Slab Area
Big Bud Arete   V2 5+     Boulder   East Bluff North : North Shore
Slope of Dadaism   V3 6A     Boulder   Monolith Area : East of Trail Boulders
Happy-Go Highball   V3-4 6A+ PG13     Boulder, 25'   West Bluff North : Massive Vertigo Area
Sunny & 60's   V4 6B     Boulder   East Bluff North : East Bluff North Talus Fiel...
Smooth Operator   V4 6B     Boulder   West Bluff North : Smooth Operator Area
Mixed Emotion   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   West Bluff North : Smooth Operator Area
The Flatiron   V4 6B     Boulder, Chipped, 10'   East Rampart Bouldering : Monster/Flatiron
Baby Crane   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Burma Road Bouldering
P.Stachio   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   500 ft. Boulder Field : The Stache Boulder AKA Dog ...
Show Me The Kind   V4 6B     Boulder   East Bluff North : North Shore
Jenga   V6 7A     Boulder   West Bluff Central : Super Slab Area
Amazing Pillar   V6 7A     Boulder   The Reserve : Amazing Pillar
Starfish   V6 7A     Boulder   The Reserve : The Reserve
Castle in the Sky   V7- 7A+ PG13     Boulder, 20'   West Bluff North : Big Red
Fat Pants   V7 7A+     Boulder   East Rampart Bouldering : East of CCC trail
Tunder Tighs    V7-8 7B     Boulder, 15'   West Bluff North : Massive Vertigo Area
What Up Weasel   V8- 7B     Boulder   West Bluff North : Smooth Operator Area
Sex and Chocolate with a Cherry on Top (aka S&C Direct)   V8 7B PG13     Boulder, 25'   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
Browse More Classics in Devil's Lake Bouldering

Featured Route For Devil's Lake Bouldering
Matched at the start and the line

Fat Pants V7 7A+  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : East of CCC trail
Start matched on the low jug on the left side and compress up the arete. Fun climbing...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Devil's Lake Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Full moon rising in the east as the sun sets in the west.  Perfect cap to a great evening.
Full moon rising in the east as the sun sets in th...
Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff bouldering.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff boulder...
Kinda worth getting up early.  Kinda.
Kinda worth getting up early. Kinda.
Page 102.
BETA PHOTO: Page 102.
This is in the Misery Gully between Misery Wall and Dutchman's Rampart.
BETA PHOTO: This is in the Misery Gully between Misery Wall an...
Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".
BETA PHOTO: Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".
Page 104.
BETA PHOTO: Page 104.
This is just below the Arrow Boulder
This is just below the Arrow Boulder
Downhill and a bit south of the arrow boulder.
Downhill and a bit south of the arrow boulder.
Page 101. Rock and Ice article issue #99 April 2000. Permission secured from Eric Zschiesche and Rock and Ice.
BETA PHOTO: Page 101. Rock and Ice article issue #99 Apr...
This boulder is in the "Slant" boulder field. This pic doesn't show it but in the next pic you will see the SEVERE narrow roof of this. We will call it the "Arrow Boulder".
BETA PHOTO: This boulder is in the "Slant" boulder field. This...
Page 103.
BETA PHOTO: Page 103.
Lou Reed Boulder <br />Scene of many bouldering epics. Real and imagined.
BETA PHOTO: Lou Reed Boulder
Scene of many bouldering epics. R...
Page 105.
BETA PHOTO: Page 105.
Rock and Ice article issue #99 April 2000. Permission secured from Eric Zschiesche and Rock and Ice. Page 100 (First Page).
BETA PHOTO: Rock and Ice article issue #99 April 2000. P...
Comments on Devil's Lake Bouldering Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 13, 2014
By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Not sure why but when you look at the Devil's Lake main page, on the left "area" menu Devil's Lake Bouldering is listed as having 0 routes...

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Also it seems we have two listings for the Chode Boulder.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 11, 2009

Paul, the route count takes a day or so to update. I've deleted the duplicate Chode Boulder. Thanks for the feedback.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, much better!!!

Paul, as you know, there is no bouldering at Devil's Lake.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 11, 2009

That's what most of the general public thinks. That's why our route count needs to be HUGE!!! ^_^

By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2009

Awesome, I was thinking about asking you guys to consolidate all the Bouldering. Beat me to it!

LOTS of potential around that "Slant" Boulder field on the West Bluff!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2009

Nice Jay, this is a much better way to distinguish the bouldering.

By SteveSchultz
Aug 12, 2009

Wow, I go to Noah's Ark for a day and things explode on here! So cool to see so many boulders coming up here!!!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 22, 2009

200 boulder problems are now documented for Devil's Lake. Impressive! Nice job guys!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2009

I moved stuff around based on conversations with Brian, Steve, and Remo. Suggestions are always welcome. Also check out wisconsinbouldering.blogspot.com/ for more beta.

Thanks Steve for making the outline, I think this will hopefully be a little easier to navigate geographically.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2009

In addition to the link in my post above for Steve's blog, you can find a West Bluff miniguide prepared by The Climbing Narc (click on the link in the second paragraph) here.

Also there is an older miniguide that does not include the West Bluff on this site. It looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost.

By Tony Brengosz
Nov 10, 2009

anybody recognize the problem he's climbing in this photo?www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Nate_working_a_projec>>>

By Tony Brengosz
Nov 10, 2009

I would also recommend just looking at his photos. Lots of stuff to get you psyched on bouldering at the lake. One especially cool picture of a sweet looking boulder on the south bluff somewhere.
www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/photos/search.cgi?query=&LinkOw>>>

By SteveSchultz
Nov 10, 2009

Tony, I think the line you're looking at is the Ejaculator. Pretty sure at least.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Nov 10, 2009

Yeah Steve is right, thats the Ejaculator, I just compared a bunch of photos because I was wondering the same thing myself :)

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 6, 2010

Good or Bad day of bouldering today?

Hit the ending 'jug' but did NOT send: Moj, Perfect Medium, and Sex and Chocolate....nearly did the same on venus rising, but stuck it the last go of the day....
Lake bouldering is so hard!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 6, 2010

You were out crankin in the woods on a nice fall day, with two of the sweetest boulder pads your feet will ever land on. GOOD day.

So, Doc Melin, Venus Rising? What, like V4/5?

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 6, 2010

So true! I sure did a lot of falling, and not a single bad landing all day.
As far as venus rising goes....V5 sounds about right, or does it maybe have a super low sit start that I didnt see?

By greg bahr
Sep 24, 2011

I have someone's stick brush they left and or stashed by ironically enough the stache boulder ha! My apologies for taking it but i dont take kindly to "stashed" stuff. I only removed it for the sake that the bouldering areas at the lake are getting trashed quickly and i refuse to see access dwindle down to nothing because of people leaving stuff behind. Im at the lake every weekend gimme a message and you can have it back! If you live in route to the lake from burbs of chicago i will even go out of my way to drop it off personally if you cant make it to the lake. Once again my apologies but please leave no trace.

Also info is needed on a petzl bag stashed near the massive vertigo area with a bunch of crow bars and etc. Who owns this bag? Why is that even out there? Do you really "clean" routes with that stuff? I can understand if it was in a random bag but its a petzl bag which is a dead give away its a climber. Anybody who works at devils lake will know a climber left it behind giving us a bad rep cause surely know one would understand why we need that kind of stuff out there anyways. Please let me know whats going on with that because i will hike it out and remove it in 2 weeks from now. You can have it back any weekend since im always there and if you live in route from the chicago burbs to the lake i can drop it off at your house.

Like i said my apologies for being the jerk to remove stuff even though its not my place to but it wasnt really your place to leave stuff anyways...Feel free to contact me with any concerns my main objective with this post was to inform people i removed stashed stuff to improve the quality relationship us boulders have with the park staff. You can everything back and ill even go out of my way to make sure you get it back!

PLEASE PEOPLE LEAVE NO TRACE!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2011

Greg, leave the bag there. I will notify the owner of your concern. The improved landing on Tunder Tighs/Full Moon Rising is a result of hard work and the contents of that bag. I doubt the park rangers care if the landing has been "Jenga'ed". If anything, it will lead to less broken bones and climber injuries, something we can all agree is a good thing.

By greg bahr
Sep 24, 2011

Chris, Awesome thanks for the quick respons. I really had no clue why it was there amd frankly it wasnt a concern what the contents did but more or less just bummed the bag was out there in general! But kudos fo hauling all that shit out there to whomever that landing is pretty nice! PM me your digits so we can meet up! Also i have a feeling i know who the bags is...if im right ill be in his area soon for a comp and if he wants to save a trip i can bring it up for him? Let me know in a PM! Like i said earlier wasnt trying to be a jerk just want a clean crag!

By greg bahr
Sep 26, 2011

just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who is searching for the new projects, putting up all these sweet new lines, and in general being some bad ass pad peoples! The new work being done at the lake is hand downs nothing short of inspiring! Nothing makes a week of shitty school better then having a whole slew of things to climb on the weekends! cue pat on the back for all...now! Thanks guys!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 12, 2011

Another Rock Warrior Film coming soon!

By nicros fivten
Nov 30, 2011

What is the best project Left to do at the lake?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 30, 2011

your mom

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 1, 2011

Nic, I think the best hard projects out there are: Tipping Point-full line(lower start with higher finish), Crack of Doom(has shot down many strong climbers), Block Party(just hard), Toe Hook(one to two really hard moves, ask Peter) and the steep roof behind Smooth Operator(I think you've seen this one). There are many more and I'm sure other people have projects out there too, but these IMHO are some of the best. Come down and send them!

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 17, 2012

Chris, I hate to add work to your list, but would it be possible to put these links in the area description? You could add the link to the topo I commented on recently too. I stole these links from your 2009 comments, might be helpful for somebody.

Also, does anybody know who did the second link (East Bluff) topos? I've redone them (mostly) and renamed routes like face v0 with their mountain project equivalents, at least as far as I can tell. I don't feel right re-posting them without their approval.

Narc's West Bluff Miniguide

East Bluff Topos

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 17, 2012

No problem, will do. The links are just a few posts up from yours here on this page (Nov 4th, 2009) but I can add them to the description too.

I thought Eric Z created those topos but I guess I was wrong, I have no idea who did, and since it's been on the web for so long I don't think anyone will care if you update and post them. Thanks!

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 17, 2012

Yeah, I saw that they were in there, figured big blue text in the area description would be easier to see. I'll try and get those posted in the next couple days here.

By SteveSchultz
Feb 17, 2012

I'm not sure who did them but if it's any consolation they are direct copies(albeit less artistic and more basic) of EZ's guide. Down to the descriptions and overview map.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 17, 2012

Thanks Chris and Steve, I'll get to it then. Unless the weather tomorrow is as good as it was today, that is.

By Garyasdf
Apr 25, 2012

I have Eric Z's Rock and Ice guide. I can post to photos for historical interest if legal. It's basically the original for the topos linked here, which, in turn, is the R&I version of Git on It.

It fills out some of the missing info on the "copy" topos (info which is available on MP) such as climbs 52 - 56 on the Monolith map. Also clears up the question about a Tumbled Rocks guide (no).

A blast from the past!

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 26, 2012

I've asked Eric Z to let me know how he feels about all this.

The R&I guide is under their copyright, I presume? Posting one page is probably "fair use" (as long as you include a note about the original source), but posting the whole thing would be a pretty clear infringement ... you could ask them for permission ....

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 27, 2012

Zschiesche writes:

"Thanks for the query,... in regard to the information and drawings from " Git on it ", feel free to use them. In regards to the R&I article,... I am not sure who has the copyright "rights" to that material. Thanks again, and,... any more questions, fire away.

cheers, Eric"

So if you post copies, please get them from "Git On It!", and make sure to include an attribution.

By Nathan Wells
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Apr 30, 2012

West Bluff Bouldering Area

Found a great area that has no chalk anywhere! Was confused since there seem to be many great potential routes. Some landings may be dicey but if a big enough group with lots of mats climbs there it would be really nice. The location is about 75 meters north of Moj, and SuperSlab and about 20-30 meters uphill. My friend and I walked straight downhill from the area and popped out north of the 500ft boulder field near a bench named after a woman...forgot the name :(

If anyone is interested in checking it out I would be happy to show you.

By Nathan Wells
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Apr 30, 2012

In regard to Brians Runnells West Bluff Topo Map.

Don't believe the John F McArthur bench exists anymore. Wasn't able to find the yellow spray painted dot in the 150ft boulder field either.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 30, 2012

I think we got rid of the yellow dot on one of our graffiti clean ups, last Fall.

By jaysquared
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2012

I can confirm for certain that the yellow dot was removed in the graffiti cleanup. If you look closely you might be able to see a patch of dead lichen on the rock where it once was. It made me think about how often graffiti is referenced as a landmark when navigating to climbing areas at the Lake..and then about how it's kind of useful...and then about how ugly it is..and then how we should remove it...and then how people are going to get lost. Apparently I was right.

By nicros fivten
Apr 30, 2013

I cannot for the life of me find the "Beautiful and the bold" project. It was posted awhile back and I want to look at the pics. Anyone know where it is?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2013

www.mountainproject.com/v/beautiful-and-the-boldproject/1070>>>

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2013

Thanks Chris. You beat me to it:)

By Adam Bazydlo
Jul 3, 2013

Going camping there this weekend for the first time for 3 days of bouldering. So CAMPING wise...Since I have a registered spot with my truck in the park, do they crack down/give you a hard time/ to people camping out in the woods at climbing spots?? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 3, 2013

Adam. The park service will never know as long as your vehicle is parked in your paid for State Park campsite. Just don't do anything at any bivy site your at to attract any attention... you may wanna pass on the use of fireworks, big spot lights, or any loud shriek'n. If your quiet and out of site of the roads the park service will never know. Leave your auto parked in your paid for camp site.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 3, 2013

Also, I don't know that I would advertise your intent on here, even if the chance of the DNR reading these comments might be low. It would be really cool to bring a sleeping bag and hammock to string between 2 trees near Super Slab/Jenga or somewhere up there, or near Sunny and 60's. Waking to the sunrise from the Jenga area would be amazing. Waking up at the Reserve would be cool too.

Sunrise over the East Bluff.  September 2010.
Sunrise over the East Bluff. September 2010.

By Joshua Uhl
Sep 11, 2013

CALLING ALL DEVILS LAKE BOULDERERS!

My name is Joshua Uhl and I am working on making a film about the bouldering scene in the midwest specifically at Devils Lake.

I want any and all People who are Bouldering hard at the lake this fall season to help and collaborate to make a rad film and put the Midwest Pebble Wrestling on the map outside of the midwest.

If anyone is interested in climbing in the film or helping out in any way, please let me know asap.

I would specifically love to tell a story about putting up and sending the hardest problems at the lake.

Get psyched for your projects and help make a rad climbing film

By madisonchoss
Oct 2, 2013

What are the best undone problems at the lake? I'm getting sick of hiking around looking for them.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Oct 2, 2013

Crack of Doom Proj - www.mountainproject.com/v/crack-of-doom-project/107118063 (No longer project, climbed by Pete B 10/6/13)

Big Boy Proj - www.mountainproject.com/v/big-boy-project-/107118214

El Parasol Proj - www.mountainproject.com/v/el-parasol-project/107542251

Smooth Roof Proj - www.mountainproject.com/v/smooth-roof-project/107516989

Impossiproject -www.mountainproject.com/v/impossiproject/106619120

Rebel Pride Project - www.mountainproject.com/v/rebel-pride/107946627

By nicros fivten
Oct 2, 2013

www.mountainproject.com/v/beautiful-and-the-boldproject/1070>>>

This has got to be it! Anyone see this? I am thinking of cOmoing out Sunday AM. wHO IS DOWN?

By Rock Warrior Films
Oct 2, 2013

Go do it Nic, and you should ask Madison choss about the blackout proj. Mostly shadey...

By madisonchoss
Oct 3, 2013

IAN don't tell Nic about that thing! We need to keep it secret until we can do it. Definitely on par in terms of quality & difficulty with Blackout at Joes. 8B?????

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Oct 3, 2013

Yeah Nic I have looked at it. Bring lots of pads it is taller in real life.

By nicros fivten
Oct 7, 2013

What are the best projects left at the lake? I have heard reference to the big 7 but I would like people to list them out.

I know Crack O was on it, what else?

Does anyone have pics of B and the B?

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Oct 7, 2013

Found a few more good looking ones.

Big Money Project: www.mountainproject.com/v/big-money-project/106913415

Jack Backwards still needs a ropeless ascent in the same area as Big Money: www.mountainproject.com/v/jack-bawkwards/106486441

On South Shore, Bald Arete Project: www.mountainproject.com/v/bald-arete-project/107599211

To be honest I can't find much else that really stands out. Soooooo many of the old projects have been climbed over the last couple years.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 8, 2013

Ian has a list of about 50 projects that he and Peter came up with. Nic, I still think someone needs to do the Smooth Roof Proj, aka The Cheddarmilker- 8B? And yes, you should go check out B and B!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Oct 8, 2013

Wow 50! Cool to hear there is so much more out there!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 25, 2013

Maybe a lot of people have already seen this but Steve put together a nice video of some highlights of the Devil's Lake bouldering 2013 season.

By Rock Warrior Films
Mar 13, 2014

Went to scope things out today. Lots of dry stuff on the East Bluff. West Bluff needs some melting, Burma Road is still closed.