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Devil's Lake 5.9



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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Apr 3, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

I've put together a pretty massive ticklist for the lake, but I've noticed well protected .9s are lacking. What are your favorite .9s in the park? Toprope routes aren't exactly what I'm looking for, but if there is a route that is worth toproping, let me know about it.

My list so far includes:

Upper Diagonal
Mung
Track Cracks
Breakfast of Champions
Wobbly Dihedral
Hammer Crack
Catenary Crack
Ptooey
The Fang

Edit:
Manhandler
Pine Box
Grand Illusion

Did I miss anything?


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By Carl Sherven
From Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2012

Chicago
Alligator Wall
Grand Illusion

Play with the advanced search feature and I'm sure a bunch more will come up.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Apr 3, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

Carl Sherven wrote:
Chicago Alligator Wall Grand Illusion Play with the advanced search feature and I'm sure a bunch more will come up.


I don't know how I missed Grand Illusion. (Edit-I didn't include .9+ routes. Back to the search!)

As for the other two, they are a little on the serious side for me, at least right now. Thanks for the help!


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By Peter Arndt
From Baraboo, WI
Apr 4, 2012
Pete Arndt on final pitch (ramp) of the Conn Route on Aquarium.

"Out There" @ Old Sandstone is one of my all time favs and often overlooked as one of the nicest 5.9's in the park.

The upper face of "Full Moon Over Baraboo" is stellar.

A couple more than come to mind are "Der Glotz" and "Fear and Trembling" @ Balance Rock Wall as energetic TR's.


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 9, 2012
photo by Burt Lindquist

I don't think everyone realizes you are asking about leads!

And of course, it depends on what you think is a 9 ... definitely include some of the the harder 8s and easier 10s in your list of "9's".

You might consider Energizer (bold start, well protected crux), Chicken Tonight, October Country, maybe Prime Rib.


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

I'll add......

"Lost Face Overhang" (right and left) ....

both rated in the 5.8 range but feel harder. Both are well protected.

"Chiaroscuro".... In my opinion the best 5.9 in the park but it is a R/X lead if no side gear ethic is adhered too.

"Hang Dog".... stiff for grade but well protected (after you head point and suss gear).

"TM Overhang"

"Tardis" (variation right hand start)

Faith, Hope, and Tension (stiff 5.8)

"Mother and Apple Pie"

"Caesarian Tower" (stiff 5.8)

"Peanut Butter" and "Mother Smuckers Jam" (both stiff 5.8s and especially for on-sights)

"Hurts" (Hertz)

"Catenary Crack" (when dryed out)

"Der Glotz" (actually well protected with RP's and Ballnuts)


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 9, 2012
photo by Burt Lindquist

I meant "Double Jeopardy", not "Energizer" as a lead. Do Gram Cracker while you are there ....


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Apr 9, 2012
hi

Welcome home and straight to MP! haha. Hope you had fun in the desert.


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By Tom Mulholland
From #1 Cheese Producing State!
Apr 9, 2012
Whiskey-a-Go-Go

Burt Lindquist wrote:
"TM Overhang"


I'm going to second TM Overhang. It's a terrific climb with great exposure and pretty bomber protection. Just beware the loose blocks below the roof, but you should still find plenty of bomber pieces. Plan a few, then pull the crux and fire to the lip.

Got stung by a wasp last time I was leading it, but couldn't let that stop me!


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Hey Jon....

Oh yes... gotta check into MP.com.... I am addicted and was in withdrawl... delirium tremons and all....

Had a absolutely great time climbing in Red Rocks with many folks and many days in a row. My finger tips were in protest at the end.... My only gripe was the darn wind made cooking and sleeping a challenge in the evenings.... and the tents got pretty sand-dusty too... folks were complaining of crunchy mouth when wak'n up in the mornings...


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Apr 10, 2012
Scarlet Begonias, 5.11a, Zion NP. Photo by the illustrious swillbilly himself Matt Kuehl.

TM Overhang is pretty fucking good and is even better in a rainstorm, yeah!

Watermarks Direct is just as hard as some of the 9's in the park and protects pretty well save for the low crux.

Chicago is also very awesome and pretty well protected on modern gear which I think is a statement that's been reiterated elsewhere on this site.

Freaky Face at OS is an often overlooked route that's pretty good and protects well despite not looking as if it will.

Gargantua feels like 5.9 sometimes.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Apr 10, 2012
Scarlet Begonias, 5.11a, Zion NP. Photo by the illustrious swillbilly himself Matt Kuehl.

Burt, why didn't you guys get in touch with me?! I wanted to climb with you guys! I'll be back in Wisconsin for a while in May and I'll give ya a holler when I'm back.


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 10, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Crap... Sorry about that Andy. Once I got there I got caught up in all the fun and fun and fun. Dmitriy made it out for the second half of the week as well and he had mentioned trying to get a hold of you the week before?? Oh well. I will be coming out again... as the place totally rocks! Yes. Give me a heads up when you can get out when your back in Sconny and I would love to climb at DL with ya.


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By Alex A
Apr 14, 2012
4th pitch Rewritten

Here's a few more

Green slim
once is enough
Never again
pooper
Kamikaze
Prime Rib
Liederkranz


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By NickinCO
From Westminster, CO
Apr 14, 2012
me

popper gets my vote for biggest sandbag at the lake!


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By Ed Wright
Apr 14, 2012
Magic Ed

Nick Mardi wrote:
popper gets my vote for biggest sandbag at the lake!


Not that hard if you tape up, or better yet, use some spider mitts.


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By NickinCO
From Westminster, CO
Apr 14, 2012
me

Ed Wright wrote:
Not that hard if you tape up, or better yet, use some spider mitts.


sure but it isn't 5.8!


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By Ryan Strong
From Franklin, Wisconsin
Apr 15, 2012
Atop the Tricouni Nail after a wet misty ascent. Memorial Day 2012

Brinton's Direct and Orgasm. Both are listed as 5.8, but protect well enough for an on sight attempt. Will most likely feel like 5.9 first attempt.


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By Trad Nanny
Apr 15, 2012

Split Decision is actually the most sand-bagged at DL at 5.7, ends up at 5.9 R. It's a pretty good climb though.

Pooper IS 5.8 on TR because you use the right corner and bump the hands up instead of the burly jamming you would do on lead.


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By NickinCO
From Westminster, CO
Apr 15, 2012
me

Climbing Fascist wrote:
Split Decision is actually the most sand-bagged at DL at 5.7, ends up at 5.9 R. It's a pretty good climb though. Pooper IS 5.8 on TR because you use the right corner and bump the hands up instead of the burly jamming you would do on lead.


I didn't realize TR counted lol


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By Trad Nanny
Apr 15, 2012

Nick Mardi wrote:
I didn't realize TR counted lol


TR is just like sport climbing.


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By highnoonhilltopper
Apr 15, 2012
j tree

pooper is solid 9+


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Years ago (I am aging myself for sure here) there was a tree that ran up parallel to the climb "Pooper" and right at the crux you could step a foot onto a branch... it put the climb into the 5.8 realm. I would do the climb both ways back then and always would chuckle about the grade in the guide.


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2012
photo by Burt Lindquist

A grade that included the tree would have been considered a sly joke in the 60s and early 70s. But with no tree anymore ....

Pooper is height dependent, so don't trust Nick's judgement on this one!


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By Trad Nanny
Apr 16, 2012

Nai! Not reachy, bump the right hand to the corner and hug it up.


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By Ed Wright
Apr 17, 2012
Magic Ed

Nah! Just put on the Spider Mitts and jam that sucker!


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