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Devil's Gap

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Orient Point - North 
Phantom Crag 
Planters Valley 

Devil's Gap Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
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The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...

Description 

Home of Planters Valley, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, Orient Point, Spectre Crag, The Phantom Tower, etc...

Getting There 

Also known as Lake Minnewanka Valley.

From the bottom of The Big Hill to Planters Valley:
Turn left into the riverbed and head south hopefully following a "road" of sorts in the soft loose rocks. Pass several large boulder breakwaters until it is possible to finish crossing the riving and come up the other bank. Follow the good road south for about 100m, where it then turns west to a three-way intersection. Go straight and cross some gravel flats and possibly cross shallow creeks in several spots (depending on water levels) and a gravel / dirt "road" that ends at the Banff National Park Boundary sign and pullout.

The "First Branch" from the 3-way just follows the river south somewhere. The "middle branch" ends up at the same planters valley parking by the Banff sign, but has recently been tougher to navigate.

If the road is terrible from the intersection, getting out and walking isn't to bad.

Don't drive into the national park because: 1. You'll hardly get any closer to the climber area, maybe saving 10 minutes of walking and you'll likely get a huge fine if you get busted.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Gap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Gap:
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Phantom Crag
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Fearful Symmetry   WI6     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Phantom Crag
Wicked Wanda   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Orient Point - North
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Gap

Featured Route For Devil's Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: Fearful Symmetry in big, December 2013.

Fearful Symmetry WI6  North America : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
This stunning line rarely forms, but when it does, get on it! It can be climbed in one long pitch, or in two by climbing the easy ice to a belay at the base of the column. The crux will be climbing through the overhangs, which leads to the steep upper section of the route. Pick your line carefully, swing and kick softly, and enjoy one of the coolest lines you'll ever climb!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Devil's Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....
The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....

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