Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cob Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Crack T 
Brownies In The Basin T,S 
Corn on the Cob T,S 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream T 
East Crack T 
Empor T 
Empor Scary Variant T 
Face Problem 
Face Route T,TR 
Game, The 
Goat, The T,TR 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct T 
Huston Crack T 
Indistinction T,S 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 
Night Vision T,S 
North Face Center T 
North Face Left T 
Northwest Corner T 
Othello T 
Right Crack T 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) T 
Thunder Road S 
Under The Boardwalk 
Unknown T 
West Cracks T 
West Dihedral T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Devil's Dream 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Jun 12, 2013

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

"Climb a thin crack near the center of the wall to a bulge and then up to a tree." - D'Antonio, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs

Additional details: start at a lichen covered crack system just right of an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This is actually more toward the upper end of the wall. Locating the lone bolt for Racing the Sun, the route just uphill will help further. Head straight up to a small roof, then slightly left using a horizontal and then up to a shelf using the nice but short, left-leaning corner. From the center of the shelf, not the crack to left which is much harder, climb up highly featured rock with liebacking and smearing to the jugs on lip of upper ledge. Work left along the lip with better feet and a dirty flake to reach the tree.

The climbing is nice and varied. Expect a bit of spice due to lichen coverage, and a fall from the upper section would land you on the shelf.

Location 

This is on Cob Rock's East Wall. To locate the East Wall, walk up and left along the base of the formation, eventually coming around a corner to reveal the small wall. See the description for additional details.

Protection 

Micro-cams, small stoppers for the start, and a gray c4 at the base of the roof to protect the moves onto the midway shelf. I was not able to find worthwhile protection for the climbing above the shelf, but an ideal stopper and micro cam can be placed while standing on the shelf. The tree is solid.


Comments on Devil's Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -