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DescriptionDevil's Den is home to the largest cliffs in the park and contains a collection of overhanging cracks, mellow chimneys, and steep faces as well as a few of the most difficult climbs in the area. New sport routes have popped up over the years in the 12-13 range while a number of the other climbs have been slowly reclaimed by lichen. There are a handful of multipitch routes scattered across the crag, although this area sees relatively little action. If you're looking for something hard, this is the place... check out Friend of the Devil 13a, Sympathy for the Devil 13b, or the unnamed arete out the right edge of the cave 13b. Getting ThereFollow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the cliff will be visible ahead. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Den:
Squeeze Play 5.4 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Easier Said Than Done 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Heat Wave 5.11 Trad
El Rayo X 5.12a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Sympathy for the Devil 5.13a/b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Devil's Den
Heat Wave 5.11 NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den
Near the left end of the cliff you cant miss this perfect left leaning crack coming out of a small cave. If you start down in the cave it's more like 5.12 and called Maximum Heat. For a challenging 5.11 (the way it's most often done)start off the rock and lean out for your first jams. Follow the crack system up and left to a mellow finish and a tree anchor.I found the crux to be the first 2/3 of the steep climbing haha. really pumpy and sustained, by the time it lets up and you get a few good ja...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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