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Devil's Den Bouldering

Select Route:
Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Arete To Arete 
Ashes To Ashes 
Big Ocean, The 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
Leave It to Beaver 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
Scala 
Surreptitious 
Throng 
Tradster 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Devil's Den Bouldering 


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Administrators: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 11, 2007
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Greg Jackson on 'Individual Medley' v6

Description 

Scattered around the base of the Devil's Den cliffband are a collection of boulders that vary in size from puny to house sized. For the most part, the bouldering was developed in the late 90's and, aside from the classics, hasn't seen much attention since. As a result, most of the easier and less popular climbs have been slowly reclaimed by the moss and lichen. The ice storm a few years ago dropped numerous trees as well, further keeping people away from the problems in the talus and away from the trail. Regardless, there are a handful of problems here that should be on everyone's must do list - that is, if you can climb V7 and keep a cool head up high.


Where Am I Going? 

Follow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the first boulder (The Premiere) is visible on the left. The Walrus is up the hill behind it, although it is best reached from further up the trail. Continue on the trail to the Dust Boulder and more, all on the left below the cliff.


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Den Bouldering:
Tradster   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 15'   
Throng   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   
The Hug   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 10'   
Individual Medley   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood   V6 7A     Boulder, 13'   
Red   V7 7A+     Boulder   
The Big Ocean   V7 7A+     Boulder   
Up in Smoke   V7 7A+     Boulder   
Leave It to Beaver   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   
Numb Thumb   V8 7B     Boulder   
Browse More Classics in Devil's Den Bouldering

Featured Route For Devil's Den Bouldering
the pocket problem

Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) V6 7A  NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering
Begin by traversing a horizontal crack system to gain a series of good, incut monos (or two-finger pockets). Yard up on these odd holds, taking care to use the right sequence. Make a long, committing move to the left arete on a rounded sloping hold. Then make another big move way off the deck to the positive holds at the top. There could be cosequences to a fall here. Mantle....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Devil's Den Bouldering Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 27, 2009

I came to check this area out the other day, I was heavily disappointed, there are downed trees all over the place, lichen covering almost everything, there is good potential, but it need some serious TLC.

By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Mar 3, 2010

ill agree matt spent an hour looking for something worth sessioning and only found a horizontal crack with a terrible landing. not worth the walk

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 3, 2010

An area like this doesn't see that much traffic because the grades keep the crowds away (mostly v5 and up). Because of this bouldering here feels and looks like everthing is an fa. Lose the guide, grab a brush and a 12 pack and you'll find some good stuff. Check out the routes on the cliff too, some awesome stuff, some WIDE too. Nice.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Mar 17, 2010

If you're seeking problems that are below V5, I'll agree, it's probably not worth the walk. Most of the problems in the guide were first climbed at least a decade ago and haven't been touched since. However, the problems that are still clean are the ones that are really worth climbing, most of which happen to be V6 or V7 and tall. The only horizontal crack I can think of is a hard V9.

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Nov 25, 2012

What is the hard face climb directly to the left of Red? It starts on two full two pad crimps, crosses to a bad two finger gastone, hits a half pad crimp, then hits the upper red good hold and finishes up the arete.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2013

Noah--

Super late answer to your question. But, I just saw it!

The problem you're describing is called 'The Big Crimp'. Not exactly sure on the grade. Felt like v5, maybe v6, to me. But that was in terrible conditions.

Hope that helps!

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 28, 2013

Does anybody know what the (decomposing) 'Walrus' goes at grade wise? I know the rock quality is a little sub par but I feel like this is one of the coolest look lines I've seen at Pway. Looks like it's been getting a lot of love lately.

Also, I have to say, this might be my favorite area at Pway. Most of the lines are outstanding, climbing high quality rock with a bit of height thrown in. There is potential for some outstanding new problems as well.

I've been doing some trail work and cleaning in this area, so it's a bit better to navigate right now. More traffic would certainly help. Bring a brush and scrub something!