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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Select Route:
Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Ashes To Ashes 
Big Ocean, The 
Individual Medley 
Leave It to Beaver 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Surreptitious 
Throng 
Tradster 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Devil's Den Bouldering 


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Page Views: 15,347. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 11, 2007

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


Greg Jackson on 'Individual Medley' v6

Description 

Scattered around the base of the Devil's Den cliffband are a collection of boulders that vary in size from puny to house sized. For the most part, the bouldering was developed in the late 90's and, aside from the classics, hasn't seen much attention since. As a result, most of the easier and less popular climbs have been slowly reclaimed by the moss and lichen. The ice storm a few years ago dropped numerous trees as well, further keeping people away from the problems in the talus and away from the trail. Regardless, there are a handful of problems here that should be on everyone's must do list - that is, if you can climb V7 and keep a cool head up high.


Where Am I Going? 

Follow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the first boulder (The Premiere) is visible on the left. The Walrus is up the hill behind it, although it is best reached from further up the trail. Continue on the trail to the Dust Boulder and more, all on the left below the cliff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Den Bouldering:
Throng   V5     Boulder, 8 feet   
Individual Medley   V6     Boulder, 18 feet   
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)   V6     Boulder, 18 feet   
Red   V7     Boulder   
The Big Ocean   V7     Boulder   
Up in Smoke   V7     Boulder   
Leave It to Beaver   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   
Numb Thumb   V8     Boulder   
Ashes To Ashes   V9     Boulder, 12 feet   
Pretty Bloc Swag   V11     Boulder, 15 feet   
Browse More Classics in Devil's Den Bouldering

Featured Route For Devil's Den Bouldering
Joe balances his way up 'Individual Medley' v6

Individual Medley V6  NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering
Great arete climbing up a beautiful squarecut corner! Start standing and make a hard highstep move to gain the arete. Stick with it until you get a sloping jug at about two-thirds height. Gather your wits and courage, and figure out the best way to get to the top (hint: look way up high and to the left for a small positive handhold). Be careful up there...this one's a thriller!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Comments on Devil's Den Bouldering Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 27, 2009

I came to check this area out the other day, I was heavily disappointed, there are downed trees all over the place, lichen covering almost everything, there is good potential, but it need some serious TLC.

By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Mar 3, 2010

ill agree matt spent an hour looking for something worth sessioning and only found a horizontal crack with a terrible landing. not worth the walk

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 3, 2010

An area like this doesn't see that much traffic because the grades keep the crowds away (mostly v5 and up). Because of this bouldering here feels and looks like everthing is an fa. Lose the guide, grab a brush and a 12 pack and you'll find some good stuff. Check out the routes on the cliff too, some awesome stuff, some WIDE too. Nice.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Mar 17, 2010

If you're seeking problems that are below V5, I'll agree, it's probably not worth the walk. Most of the problems in the guide were first climbed at least a decade ago and haven't been touched since. However, the problems that are still clean are the ones that are really worth climbing, most of which happen to be V6 or V7 and tall. The only horizontal crack I can think of is a hard V9.

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Nov 25, 2012

What is the hard face climb directly to the left of Red? It starts on two full two pad crimps, crosses to a bad two finger gastone, hits a half pad crimp, then hits the upper red good hold and finishes up the arete.